eCtune

No, I have the DIY 2.5 bar Motorola sensor from xenocron that Chris put together for me. It's brand new which is why I never went back to it as being my problem, just noticed it yesterday when I pulled all that fuel out to get it running. Oh well guess I have to get yet another...

Well I got the car to run, not good by any means but it did run, I had to pull 95% overall fuel trim to do it. It got the car running long enough to check the maps and I noticed that the cels were reading from the 21psi part. So looks like my brand new MAP sensor is the problem.

Throttle body never came off the intake manifold and I torqued the manifold onto the head myself and checked it again, everything just fine there.

Well the car is still not running. From the looks of it, it seems to be getting too much fuel. I did the valve adjustment, checked for stuck injectors, swapped fuel pressure regulators, pulled a ton of fuel from my maps and still getting tons of fuel vapor out of the exhaust. Any other ideas?

Maybe a wrong connected purge valve? If the lines are connected after the throttle valve, it can give strange things. The purge lines must be connected before the throttle. I will check this, I am most certain though it's connected correctly. I have run through all my wiring and hoses atleast 25 ti...

Stalling, high vacum reading, fluctuating idle...it's all the problems im seeing.

B16 Bored to 81,50 CP 9.0:1 pistons Stock head Was in the garage yesterday to check the valve lash and there was zero clearence. I actually had to crank the adjustment screw on the valve 3 turns before I could get the feeler gauge in there.

Well I had my motor built a ways back but have been unable to drive it. Mostly due to frustration but I have ran out of ideas until now. When I had the motor built, I brought it to a mechanic due to lack of time at that moment but I did go when I had time to work on it myself (long story). When I go...

xenocron wrote:Why would he have to adjust any of these on a stock motor with I/H/E?

The settings never worked for me, I always had to adjust them to get the car to idle properly after driving for a bit.

Did you adjust battery offsets, ect/iat corrections?

TheGuardian wrote:I few bucks + shipping...not much, what is his zip code? And yes...she already pulls pretty hard @Bugermass: So if I upgraded to a Blox or Skunk 2 intake manifold that should help my top end correct?

His zip is 27587...let me know.

I think you would benefit greatly porting the head. What are the plans now or you going to leave it the way it is? Oh by any chance do you still have the GReddy elbow laying around? Although i would gain some high end by porting, i'd loose some low end and this is my DD so... Yea, I do have the Gre...

Sweet ! I thought I was the only who messed with the GReddy kit...LoL...that elbow is a piece of crap and the cause of all the problems with that kit. The stock kit on my B16 made 193whp at 7psi and after the ramhorn manifold, downpipe upgrade (2.5 inch off the turbo) on just under 6psi i made 223wh...

I doubt the sleeves ovaled out, pretty sure one would notice that while honing the block, that is unless they used one of those ball type hones. If I have to take a shot in the dark, I would look at the valve stem seals like naturalalloy suggested.

Start a new cal from scratch and get the car started using the Injector Calibration tool in the tools drop down let the car warm and adjust battery offset. Let the car cool and then adjust ECT/IAT corrections. That's how I go about it and never have an issue. You adjusted the fuel table which is pro...