B16A T3/T4 6PSI 203WHP 139TRQ

EITCP · Post by **EITCP** » Sun May 03, 2009 5:38 am

stock pistons can hold a lot with a good tune. i tuned several B16 cars with turbo and 9-10 psi and they still driving around. ieven tuned stock JDM ITR B18c6 turbo at 7psi and the engine still holds together. if stock pistons can not handle this boost then sooner or later forged ones will give up too because it is a tuning problem. B20beast must take off the head and see what realy happened.either he cracked ringlands (timing probem)or damaged piston skirts/sleeve bores (wrong fuel map).

naturalalloy · Post by **naturalalloy** » Sun May 03, 2009 10:01 am

You found the knock threshold...oops. It happens. Don't go adding timing without at least reading the plugs as you make changes. I really prefer to use an listening device to catch any knock early. My B16 lasted 11psi and 320-330whp for almost 20,000 miles. Soft timing and rich tune.

ge0ne · Post by **ge0ne** » Sun May 03, 2009 1:45 pm

i am talkin of not safe and less hp. But accurate, more hp and more closer to the big bang. Either way it always depends on the way you drive. Hitting ALWAYS 8-9k rpm continuously on stock internals will get you closer to the end. I don't believe that ring lands broke from pressure or tune, but maybe both. The pressures i gave are on the safe side for everyday abuse!

patrickjr · Post by **patrickjr** » Sun May 03, 2009 8:10 pm

i have a b16a on 10 psi with 1 deg of time out per psi i have about 10000 miles on it i take it apart to due some head work and my motor look good so that work for me

b20beast · Post by **b20beast** » Mon May 04, 2009 8:08 am

ge0ne wrote:i am talkin of not safe and less hp. But accurate, more hp and more closer to the big bang. Either way it always depends on the way you drive. Hitting ALWAYS 8-9k rpm continuously on stock internals will get you closer to the end. I don't believe that ring lands broke from pressure or tune, but maybe both. The pressures i gave are on the safe side for everyday abuse!

But everyone said the timing maps look good and the arf was in the 11.5-12.5AFR Range

Post by **Gaskleppie** » Mon May 04, 2009 2:59 pm

Maybe it was already damaged in earlier tuning attempts?

b20beast · Post by **b20beast** » Mon May 04, 2009 3:05 pm

Gaskleppie wrote:Maybe it was already damaged in earlier tuning attempts?

That is a possibility also, My ECT went up to 100Degrees Celsius that night. Is this a potential, problem for the cracked ringland?

ge0ne · Post by **ge0ne** » Mon May 04, 2009 3:09 pm

100 ect, is not a big issue, of course it can help the damage but probably it went that high a little after the damege or a little before, an aluminum radiator is a must, and i always use a low temp thermostat and a thermo fan switch on setups like this. Gaskleppie i couldn't agree more with you.

b20beast · Post by **b20beast** » Mon May 04, 2009 3:17 pm

ge0ne wrote:100 ect, is not a big issue, of course it can help the damage but probably it went that high a little after the damege or a little before, an aluminum radiator is a must, and i always use a low temp thermostat and a thermo fan switch on setups like this. Gaskleppie i couldn't agree more with you.

Thanks, i got a Aluminum Radiator i will try a low temp thermo... also why is there a need for a thermo fan switch, ectune can control the fan to turn on earlier

ge0ne · Post by **ge0ne** » Mon May 04, 2009 4:18 pm

better have two protections, one one from the ecu and one from the low temp fan switch. I go with mugen but anything should work.

Post by **Bugermass** » Mon May 04, 2009 7:30 pm

I've made over 400 on stock pistons/rods and pump gas and over 500 on stock pistons/rods on race gas.. The pistons arn't the problem.. You said you put a 10 PSI spring and the map sensor only read 8. If your using a stock map sensor this somtimes happens. Even though they are supposed to read like 11 PSI, I've had some stock honda maps sensors only read like 7 psi and actually be at 12.. The stock sensors are not very consistant and you have to pay very close attention to actuall boost externally from the ECU when using them.

b20beast · Post by **b20beast** » Mon May 04, 2009 8:16 pm

Bugermass wrote:I've made over 400 on stock pistons/rods and pump gas and over 500 on stock pistons/rods on race gas.. The pistons arn't the problem.. You said you put a 10 PSI spring and the map sensor only read 8. If your using a stock map sensor this somtimes happens. Even though they are supposed to read like 11 PSI, I've had some stock honda maps sensors only read like 7 psi and actually be at 12.. The stock sensors are not very consistant and you have to pay very close attention to actuall boost externally from the ECU when using them.

ahhh this makes alot of sense. i have a mechanical boost gauge/autometer. it didn't go up near the 10psi mark at all. but lets say it read 12psi, the ecu referenced the 6-8psi column would it matter because its reading from there? but my green spring read correct..... 6.5psi

David974 · Post by **David974** » Mon May 04, 2009 10:21 pm

b20beast wrote: Thanks, i got a Aluminum Radiator i will try a low temp thermo... also why is there a need for a thermo fan switch, ectune can control the fan to turn on earlier

The stock thermo fan switch is a 93Â°C one so you can't control the fan earlier if you want to go lower you need a new (mugen style) thermo fan switch regards

Post by **Bugermass** » Tue May 05, 2009 1:17 am

b20beast wrote: ahhh this makes alot of sense. i have a mechanical boost gauge/autometer. it didn't go up near the 10psi mark at all. but lets say it read 12psi, the ecu referenced the 6-8psi column would it matter because its reading from there? but my green spring read correct..... 6.5psi

Basically what will happen is your making 12 PSI of boost, but the ECU only thinks your at 6 or 8 or whatever so you end up with only enough fuel for 8PSI and a bit too much timing.. Also we have like 3-4 different boost guages floating around the shop and they are all off from each other. Anyone whos tuning a boosted car should really do themselves a favor a buy a really nice quality liquid filled mechanical boost guage. Its almost as important as a good wideband.. pressure sensors vary and its always good to know EXACTLY how much boost you are really running, especially if you don't have a dyno at your disposal to find MBT..

b20beast · Post by **b20beast** » Tue May 05, 2009 12:02 pm

Bugermass wrote:
b20beast wrote: ahhh this makes alot of sense. i have a mechanical boost gauge/autometer. it didn't go up near the 10psi mark at all. but lets say it read 12psi, the ecu referenced the 6-8psi column would it matter because its reading from there? but my green spring read correct..... 6.5psi
Basically what will happen is your making 12 PSI of boost, but the ECU only thinks your at 6 or 8 or whatever so you end up with only enough fuel for 8PSI and a bit too much timing.. Also we have like 3-4 different boost guages floating around the shop and they are all off from each other. Anyone whos tuning a boosted car should really do themselves a favor a buy a really nice quality liquid filled mechanical boost guage. Its almost as important as a good wideband.. pressure sensors vary and its always good to know EXACTLY how much boost you are really running, especially if you don't have a dyno at your disposal to find MBT..

ok another question lets say the ecu read 8psi but actually at 12psi.... wideband shows a consistaant 11.5-12.5AFR. So i assume i was in the right column. What do you make Also what brand makes mechanical liquid filled boost gauge?