How to get better MPG? (cal and elf attached)

Post by **Bugermass** » Mon Sep 29, 2008 9:30 pm

Also since your N/A I'd 0 out the IAT ignition corrections @ 122,135,164 and set 177 to arounf -3deg and leave 291 whre its at. Stop and go and light traffic will heat soak your IAT and cause the ECU to pull timming when its not nessisary . . Check your logs to see if theres any IAT.ing.c happening during part throttle..

ef92b · Post by **ef92b** » Tue Sep 30, 2008 10:30 am

it's always nice to read your updates Blake.

what sparkplugs are you using btw? i've read you topic about reading sparkplugs too so how does your porcelain look like, from center down buttom to the fuel ring? i find setting the FPR @45psi good when tuning stock H22's with stock 330's though.

98vtec · Post by **98vtec** » Mon Oct 06, 2008 11:37 am

ef92b wrote:it's always nice to read your updates Blake. what sparkplugs are you using btw? i've read you topic about reading sparkplugs too so how does your porcelain look like, from center down buttom to the fuel ring? i find setting the FPR @45psi good when tuning stock H22's with stock 330's though.

i actually have not had a chance to check out the plugs ever since i moved to ectune. School has been keeping me busy lately and i literally havent even used vtec in 2 months, lol. I'm gonna be doing it this week as I'm driving to south florida for a prelude meet and a track meet so i need to get my ass in gear, lol. I gotta cash my paycheck so i can get a few sets of plugs to play around with

98vtec · Post by **98vtec** » Mon Oct 06, 2008 11:46 am

Bugermass wrote:Also since your N/A I'd 0 out the IAT ignition corrections @ 122,135,164 and set 177 to arounf -3deg and leave 291 whre its at. Stop and go and light traffic will heat soak your IAT and cause the ECU to pull timming when its not nessisary . . Check your logs to see if theres any IAT.ing.c happening during part throttle..

i actually tried this yesterday and i think i am going to go back to how i had it because i was encountering det with the settings you recommended. I think i am also going to move to running without the stock honda ignition advance completely. I think i can control my part throttle a little better if i didnt have that in the background adding timing all the time.

98vtec · Post by **98vtec** » Mon Oct 13, 2008 12:36 pm

well i got a chance to get on the dyno to really get the cylinders synced together. Man do the individual cylinder trims seriously make a difference!! The graph would be a lot smoother if i was able to spend more time on the dyno but im just a poor college student working minimum wage so this is just going to have to do for now.

the plugs looked awesome other than one weird thing which i will get to in a moment. At the end of the tune, i ended up with 32* table and prolly closer to 28* actually going to the engine with absolutely 0 signs of detonation. I started off with the zfr7r-11 plugs, moved to the 4091's and these were just way too cold. Not even one of the threads was discolored from the heat. So i took them out and threw in the zfr6's that i had in the car. Too hot. the 7's were perfect heat. 2 threads discolored. Parallel and higher to the base of the threads on the insulator was flat white color. Below that line, everything was black but the fuel ring at the bottom appeared complete and there was no extra fuel caked at the bottom so i took this as the fuel being in an optimal mixture. I didnt have to change anything in cylinder 1 timing wise. The most timing had to be pulled from 3 and 4. I think i ended up taking out 3.5* from cylinder 3 and 3* from cylinder 4 and .5* from cylinder 2. Each time i made a pull and saw that i needed to remove timing from the cylinders and made another pull, the graph lost power and got really choppy which told me to add timing. I did this over and over for the last 30-45 minutes and it really paid off in the end. Still has a lot more to be done though. Now the weird part about the plugs i wanted to mention is the ground strap. I was pulling them at 7200 rpm or so and the ground strap was bright white, making the color change on the ground strap even more noticeable. Nothing else appeared wrong so i just kept on going. Has anyone experienced that before? If you are wondering, due to time constraints i didnt pay much attention to below 5400 rpm other than vtec (4000) and minor fueling and ignition adjustments. Hopefully once i get some more money i will go back and fix all the discrepancies you see in the graph. Now back to the gas mileage. I made a trip to south florida this weekend, approximately 650 miles there and back with driving in between. My ostrich drivers went bad for whatever reason and i neglected to fix the low cam/part throttle timing after getting all the cylinders in sync so they were excessively retarded. To the point to where i could feel the engine putting a brake on itself on the interstate. Went to the track and it was horribly prepared and i couldnt really use any of 1st or 2nd gear even on R compound tires. Managed a 14.1 at about 99mph. After a few runs, i noticed a weird sound coming from the engine. SOunded like a horrible valve tick but it didnt do it at idle so i knew the engine was fine. Went for a drive and it was definitely cylinder dependent so i took a look at the header. #2 runner completely cracked all the way around at the flange:

so yea that sucks for a 300 mile drive back home... anyway, i went to a friends house and updated the drivers for the ostrich and added some timing back to the map. I could still feel the engine braking itself a little bit but i was too tired to really care at that time, lol. Still managed to get 35mpg with what might as well be a down cylinder and running too little timing. I'm happy yet pissed all at the same time.

zcftw · Post by **zcftw** » Sat Mar 21, 2009 6:31 am

Good to see it was just the header.