eCtune

setup is as follows: stock internal B18B RC440 injectors stock pressure eBay turbo kit T3/T4 57 trim Got it all tuned in and AFRs looking great under WOT & cruise loads. Timing is still on the conservative side until I get up on the rollers. Only problem I m having is an extended crank before it fires off and starts. before the car was boosted, I ran on CROME with the stock injectors and never had this problem. I am kinda thinking my cranking map is a bit on the lean side for the lower temps, and may just need to be enriched. I havent wanted to mess with it just yet and have made not adjustments to the cranking map. These figures are what was given from the auto-calibration. Also, what kind of AFR is ideal under cranking conditions? I would think it would need to be fairly rich... 9:1? Screenshots: [/img]

I have never had to adjust the cranking table, ever. Simply adjust the cranking multiplier until you get the desired result, very easy to do. Tuning for a specific AFR is usually difficult as the wideband may reset or shut down completely during cranking unless powered by a completely seperate power source. Anyways, just tuning cranking multiplier for the right \"feel\" should do the trick nicely. /Allan

To get it dead on you'll have to log your results and adjust each temp column as the temp changes (year round). You should be able to get it to fire on the 1st or 2nd compression stroke at any temp. However, most people are not that meticulous.

Well, mine takes 4-6seconds to finally fire. Its happening a any ECT when I leave the car sit for 5 or more minutes. Almost seems like a fuel pressure issue, but I doubt thats the problem as the car started FINE just minutes before I flashed the Ostrich with the ECTune .cal Only time that it fires right up is when it has been running, and then shut off, and immediately started back up within 30sec to 1 min. Im in the process of adjusting the cranking trim right now, and hopefully I can get it starting fine.

half your cranking multiplier.. If its set to say -40 set it to -20 and try that. Don't mess with the cranking table, only the main cranking trim

Bugermass wrote:half your cranking multiplier.. If its set to say -40 set it to -20 and try that. Don't mess with the cranking table, only the main cranking trim

tried that already... was set to -45% I tried all the way down to 0 and still no change. Going to verify FP again tomorrow @ work & reply afterwards. THANKS GUYS!

Maybe what you´re seeing is more related to ECT/IAT than the cranking itself? Oh the wonders of a heat-soaked IAT sensor /Allan

looks like it was the vss causing the problems. dropped a new one in today and the speedo is working and its shifting fine now. thanks for the help.