A couple Full Throttle Shift questions

combz · Post by **combz** » Thu Oct 08, 2009 10:41 am

it didn't work. I disabled the service check connector thing like was suggested, and now when i press in my clutch the solid check engine light doesnt come on anymore. However when i got to FTS options, and select the service check connecter as input, then push my clutch in, the input checkbox on the list does not show a check mark when i push my clutch in. I tried inverting input...and the check mark shows up, and is on without putting the clutch in. But when i push the clutch in it doesn't go away (uncheck). It has to be wired right though doesnt it? Since it was making my check engine light come on, it would have to mean that the switch was working as intended? but its not working with FTS. Anyone got any ideas to help me here..im fucking stumped! The switch i am using is hooked up to my clutch safety switch..when i unplug the connector to it, my car will not start. period. There are two wires comming from the back of the plug on the switch..one of them was black, i am ASSUMING that is run to ground, and the other i ran to the brown wire on my service check connector. I assume the black was ground because when i pushed my clutch now, it engaged the service check connector as if when you jump the pin on it, ie ground it. WTF??

TopMountGSR · Post by **TopMountGSR** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 3:05 am

Something is not right.. Your SSC input is disabled right? In needs to be when wired like this. One side of the top clutch switch plug goes to ground, and one side goes to the brown wire on the SSC plug. Clutch input should be inverted and set to SSC [d4]. Then you should be able to test it with the ignition on, connected, pressing the clutch should show up in the data box under FTS clutch input I've installed it this way many times with success. Try switching inputs if all else fails. You'll get it just keep messing with it. Let us know, DK

combz · Post by **combz** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 11:39 am

everything you said in the last post i already did. i disabled SSC , since my CEL was on solid when i push in the clutch, since i hooked up the switch from the clutch. In order for that to happen, it must mean i am grounding the signal (brown wire) on the service cehck connector, when i push the clutch. So if i know its grounding when i push the clutch, why isn't it working, when i select it as input, after disableing SSC. Something is fucked up, i just cant logically think why given how its acting. When i select input as SSC after disableing it..the check mark doesnt come on for FTS input when i push in the clutch...or when i invert it..its on all the time..no switching happens. I really wanted this to work

switching input is a pain in the ass, but i will do it for diagnostic purposes. Its just rediculous because clearing its working becuase my check engine light goes on when i hit the switch on the clutch, before disableing SSC!!! gah.

combz · Post by **combz** » Wed Oct 14, 2009 11:42 am

maybe my assumption is wrong about the switch that was already in my car? would it make sense that that switch is connected one signal and one to power? instead of to ground? i'll haul out the volt metter and check it .

combz · Post by **combz** » Fri Oct 16, 2009 11:33 am

yup...that was it.. the switch already on my car was not ground switched.. i put volt meter on it, and it had positive voltage. went and got another switch hooked it up in a second location on my clutch pedal and it started to work. I hope the following is information that is useful to people. Issues: -You cannot check your switch is working unless you have the Car running!! I thought i could put Key on ignition off, and datalog, but no dice, car must be running (at least using service check connecter for input source). And must be datalogging to see if switch works, by viewing the appropriate check box. -i found only the gear based one actually worked. if i didnt have that seletced it wouldnt work. -Also another thing was that, the switch i used had a very small engage/disengage threshold, so if i touched the pedal..like at all..input would switch...and sometimes my car would hit the FTS rev limiter, instead of actual rev limiter. So i think you should use a switch with a longer engage/diengage prong on it, if mounting FTS switch to the clutch pedal stop location. If using the top clutch location, you may want to add a spacer of some sort if you find your FTS rev limit is not happening quick enough. -Didnt seem to work from 1st gear shift to second.Still banged off actual rev limiter. Only attempted twice. Observations: -keep in mind i only tested for about 35 minutes. Did anyone else have same issues? -Last night car was boosting high due to temperature..i saw 16 psi, and during FTS **WITH NO ANTILAG** i stayed at 10psi while FTS'ing. -set value in gears to 5000rpm, driveline shock was noticiable, but not too harsh on the street. What does the check box do for limit at RPM when checked?

combz · Post by **combz** » Fri Oct 23, 2009 11:49 am

update FTS does work from 1st-2nd gear.

thething96 · Post by **thething96** » Fri Oct 23, 2009 4:19 pm

What transmission are you using? Could it be worn out synchros?

TopMountGSR · Post by **TopMountGSR** » Thu Nov 19, 2009 8:12 am

Our D series setups seemed to not like fts at all when there are syncro issues, b series trannys however don't seem to mind some syncro issues and fts as much. Its weird but I have had 4 different b series trannys in my setup this season, some with syncro issues, none of which has stopped me from a 100% tps reading the whole way down the track. I'm sure there is a point were so much syncro/hub/slider damage is too much, but it will surprise you what you can get away with. Also do not fts while spinning.. Your chance of actually hitting the gear greatly decreases and when it doesn't go, your chances of added syncro damage becomes greater.

combz · Post by **combz** » Fri Nov 20, 2009 3:34 pm

i have 5 d-series transmissions.. the one in my car currently is a z6 one. Its the best one i have had so far... i think its related to my Xtreme pressure plate/ 6puck sprung/ stock (perhaps shitting hte bed) master cylinder setup..i duno.. but i got taken for a drive in a ~200whp b series on 6 psi...and he was banging through the gears like it was going out of style...i wish i could do that on any d series lol..it just isnt the same.

thething96 · Post by **thething96** » Fri Nov 20, 2009 7:04 pm

It could also be a bad shifter bushing(the one by the transmission), or the bushing on the actual shifter, there may be too much side to side movement, so you're gears aren't going in 100%. I had this happen to me on a GSR transmission. I replaced both shifter bushings, and it made a HUGE difference......

TopMountGSR · Post by **TopMountGSR** » Mon Nov 23, 2009 4:41 am

Sometimes heavy clutch discs can cause engagement issues at high rpm.