eCtune

When I click: \"Limit at rpm when pressed\", It changes the blue header from \"shift rpm\" to \"minimum shift rpm\" I've always just clicked it and set it to 4000rpms. Can someone explain the actual differences in full throttle shift setup either way? Anyone ever use it first to second? If I hook up good tonight at the track I might try it. I hear the key to not lifting, is only using it when your dead hooked, not spinning at the top of the gear. Thank you for your time, dk

I used FTS tonight.. down the whole drag strip, never lifting. Worked beautiful and picked up a ton of time. I have it setup like: Limit at rpm pressed checked, 4000rpm I really think I could benefit from turning that rpm value up considering I shift at 9k. I think it will make it more violent without enabling anti lag.

How does this work? You just keep your foot on the gas when you shift?

you need to had a swich under the clutch pedal?

Yes, you never let off the gas while shifting. You would think it would be extremely hard on it car but it sure doesn't seem like it. I've setup 5 different cars with it setup just like my car, its smooth as glass. On standalones I've messed with, how harsh depends on were you place the cut at. On the street 1000-2000 rpm cut before the shift point works great, smooth as silk. At the track we set them up to cut exactly at the shift point. The shift point being whenever it sees the clutch has been depressed. This is a whole lot harsher of an impact between shift, but you go faster. I am just trying to understand how to set this one up like I'm used to and my questions in the orig post would help me benefit at the track a bit more. I always use the factory cruise switch at the top of the clutch pedal. If you don't have cruise control you can get them off any parts car that has it and install it in minutes. Run one side of the switch to ground, then run the other side to one of the available inputs. Normally I wire the other side of the switch to the 2 pin [service check connector] plug found above the ecu, bottom right of the glove box. Most of the time its stuck in a rubber boot. I use the brown wire I think on that plug. Then just setup in ectune as a inverted 'service check connector' input. This makes it easy, no pinning involved and I wire it up in 5 min, tops.

I've full throttle shifted on my car with eCtune, but have only done it once on the street. The shifting was extremly harsh. Maybe wrong setup?

Possibly, what are your settings? Torn oem mounts? Or its not working and its using the limiter.

Its a DC2 Integra with Hasport mounts. I checked the map and it looked like full throttle anti-lag was on(forgot to turn off!!!!!).I was thinking its either the antilag or stiff mounts.........

Okay so i am going to try (again) to set this up. I have a stock switch in place on my clutch...i was told in another thread i didnt have one (98 civic manual), but i looked and sure enough it had one. It appears a previous owner had installed a remote start in the car and taped into the wires for that switch i assume that wont matter. However...the one thing i am worried of is... what happens if FTS does not work? shouldnt your car still only rev to your specifdied rev limit??? or does it just keep going??? On my stock civic, i tried it for fun, and it doesnt go past rev limit. im scared that if it doesnt work its going to over rev and fuck something up. will this happen?

combz wrote:Okay so i am going to try (again) to set this up. I have a stock switch in place on my clutch...i was told in another thread i didnt have one (98 civic manual), but i looked and sure enough it had one. It appears a previous owner had installed a remote start in the car and taped into the wires for that switch i assume that wont matter. However...the one thing i am worried of is... what happens if FTS does not work? shouldnt your car still only rev to your specifdied rev limit??? or does it just keep going??? On my stock civic, i tried it for fun, and it doesnt go past rev limit. im scared that if it doesnt work its going to over rev and f*** something up. will this happen?

If it does not work it will just goto the specified rev limit. You can check to see if its working by looking at the input in the data box on the left. When you hit the clutch the input's check box should check, when you release, it should un check. If its backwards, 'invert' the input. This is a check box under the input when you specified which one to use. Don't be scared to use this, I understand how you would be, I was too first time I used it but nothing bad will happen if it doesn't work. People have been full throttle shifting for years without any control and just using the rev limiter.

If you're worried set the fts limit very low and your normal just a little bit higher until you are satisfied everything works

okay thanks for the tip about the checkbox. which wire do you hook it up to for the service check connector? the brown one? edit: just seen this up in your post. I'll give it a whirl.

It does take a little getting used to. Instead of letting off the throttle, I had to train myself to floor it during shifts. This is the only way I can shift without falling out of boost too much during shifts on the street.

well this is the first time i had the internet since i hooked it up, since i dont have it at home... anyways my ectune was locked out , so i needed to come update it before i could try it..which is what im doing right now. Anyways without going into anything in ectune...right now when i press my clutch in... my check engine light comes on. i assume that is becuase i have it wired into my service check connector pin. I hope ectune is smart enough to realize once i select that as the input for my FTS, not to make it think im jumping the connector on my service pin anymore.

parameters->features->Service Check Connector you can move it to another input or just disable it all together. You don't need it to check codes as you will see explained in that window.