eCtune

Posted: **Mon May 17, 2010 12:30 pm**

What wideband gauge kit would you guys recommend for a permanent install in car?

Posted: **Mon May 17, 2010 12:45 pm**

I have a PLX setup in my car, works great. IMO, permanent installs are easier than temporary installs. well other than mounting the gauge so I'm happy. (I'm picky)

Posted: **Mon May 17, 2010 1:16 pm**

Looking for something around the 200usd mark

Posted: **Mon May 17, 2010 1:18 pm**

I have heard tons of praise about PLX, in fact my buddy who tunes for a living used a PLX everyday on a lot of cars with great success. I have an LC1 and it's alright, installation and stuff was kinda a pain and the calibration LED never lights up (probably DOA) but so far it's been very accurate and fast. I have also used the AEM EUGO and it's a breeze to install, and pretty accurate. I've had others say Tech Edge WBs are awesome too. Hope this helped.

Posted: **Mon May 17, 2010 1:38 pm**

pandorasbox wrote:I have heard tons of praise about PLX, in fact my buddy who tunes for a living used a PLX everyday on a lot of cars with great success. I have an LC1 and it's alright, installation and stuff was kinda a pain and the calibration LED never lights up (probably DOA) but so far it's been very accurate and fast. I have also used the AEM EUGO and it's a breeze to install, and pretty accurate. I've had others say Tech Edge WBs are awesome too. Hope this helped.

The AEM Eugo was actually the one I was considering, the gauge looks pretty nice when installed

Posted: **Wed May 19, 2010 12:41 pm**

Search on this forum for the AEM Ueago, there are bad story's about them.

Posted: **Wed May 19, 2010 10:27 pm**

I don't like the AEM on my Snowmobile, I use the Dynojet Wb2, compare to the Wideband Commander, the WB2 is accurate, and very easy to install the price is nearly the same as the AEM On my personnal car (S2000) I have a LC-1 with a display, and this is not easy to wired

Posted: **Fri May 21, 2010 6:26 pm**

I'm a sucker for the JAW or NAW from 14point7 if you have many DIY skills... The controller can be mounted in any sort of case, here it is bare:

And if you have a DC etc, you can mount the actual display in the OE clock

Posted: **Fri May 21, 2010 6:29 pm**

wow that's clean

Posted: **Sat May 22, 2010 4:59 am**

sgtmillhouse648 wrote:I'm a sucker for the JAW or NAW from 14point7 if you have many DIY skills... The controller can be mounted in any sort of case, here it is bare: And if you have a DC etc, you can mount the actual display in the OE clock

Where can I buy this kit? Does it use a standard Bosch type 02?

Posted: **Sun May 23, 2010 10:56 pm**

Garrett wrote:wow that's clean

ya thats super clean. How did you figure out how to do that?

Posted: **Mon May 24, 2010 5:14 am**

I still have a jaw.... Simple, functional

. It's installed in my buddies car; I think that is the best display placement I have ever seen for it. In my car I pinched it in the ashtray

Posted: **Mon May 24, 2010 10:01 am**

This is the JAW 1.041 made by Allen at 14point7.com. He has come out with a NAW as he calls it which uses the same display, but is a lot smaller of a system. You will need to make your own wideband cable, but it uses the regular Bosch LSU 4.2 from a VW, part number 17014. We originally used a first-gen JAW on our motorsports' team's RX7 and well...I got bored and decided to see if it would fit inside my clock, and sure enough it does. The actual controller is mounted in a box under the dash ontop of the tunnel. The actual 0-5V output is wired into the ECU as well which runs wideband closedloop from it. Here's the actual post I made on Team-Integra.net when I first installed it:

Originally posted by sgtmillhouse648 on Aug/18/09 So I got the JAW in from Alan at 14Point7 and after getting it assembled I'm extremely impressed with the ease of adapting it to the OE clock... The actual assembly of the controller was a piece of cake. Alan sends the unit and all the components in little baggies which are labeld, and the PCB is labeled with where you need to solder the components to. The display assembles the same way: Now for the fun part...to put it all in the clock. When you pull the clock, there are 4 screws in the back of it. Pull them out and the back plastic piece slides off revealing the clock circuit board which can be simply pulled out. Then center the display board in and attach using some sort of adhesive. I used gorilla super glue The only modifications needed to the clock case is for a clearance hole to be drilled for the capacitor: for a cleaner look, the clock buttons can simply be super glued in from the back leaving this: Then plug in the 5 pin cable which you construct with the kit and put the back on: You can see the capacitor protruding slightly from the back of the cover... Everything all hooked up to test: And a closeup of the new 'clock' So far I'm defiitely pumped with how easy it has been. I've got to get a case to mount the controller in and then construct a cable to go from the 02 sensor to it. Alan has a link to the connector needed to directly plug into the LSU 4.2 sensor. After that i'll calibrate the controller, and finish the install!

Posted: **Fri Aug 20, 2010 8:51 am**

so clean ...

Very good idea

Posted: **Fri Aug 20, 2010 12:26 pm**

I'm running an PLX DM-5 AFR unit. Works fine for me! For tuning i use an Innovate LC-1.

eCtune

Which wideband for permanent install?

Which wideband for permanent install?