stuffs gettin a little warm in here.

dcletten · Post by **dcletten** » Tue Jun 22, 2010 2:01 pm

Maddog20 wrote:What motor is the crank,cam gear and cam from? crank is y8, cam and cam gear the guy i got from said they were all y8 parts in y8 head. so im going off that, the gear was 4* off of center when i got it, i just zero'd it out and went from there I would verify if the cam gear is for a Y8. How you can tell is if the key cut out is offset from 0*. I believe a Y8 cam gear key cut is 4.75* retarded. This i will do Also when setting TDC on a Y8 remove the valve cover set a machinest ruler flat on the head surface. It should line up to the the marks on the cam gear at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock, dont use the pointer on the plastic cover it is wrong and just a generic piece used for different engine in that gen. this last time the head was off i zero'd it out perfectly before installing the head Once you get the mechanical timing setup...then set the ignition timing with SVC connector jumped. Then see if the car over heats at idle.

this i also plan on re-checking next time i have time (busy at work + a shitton of rain last few days) since my last post i have re-wired my fan to run off relay wired to bat instead of underdash fusebox. also redid valve lash, .007 I - .008 E on bisimoto stg2 regrind(cant find any specs on it, got the cam card from bisi and its not on there). going to get my timing maps smoothed out a bit and lines not crossing, then retime it to 12* and see if it overheats at idle. if all go at idle, gonna drive it and see what happens i guess

dcletten · Post by **dcletten** » Tue Jun 22, 2010 2:08 pm

TopMountGSR wrote:Did you use an oem thermo? stant 180* When is it over heating? idling, freeway, etc. So far ive noticed it driving, mix of traffic and some free flowing. i havent done a straight up idle test yet, its always been driving, did let it get to 207, let it sit and idle. took it a good 20-25 min before it hit 209, then i shut it off. Is the bottom rad hose getting hot? yes, seems as if coolant system is flowing fine, stayes cool till the 180-190 range then gets warm. Re torque those head studs down to 80-85 ft lbs, it will save you a world of trouble this i will do, i did that with my old ones, took them to 80. everywhere i saw said 62 for first timers with arp lube, so did that, heat cycled it, took them to 65. but will retorque next time i can borrow my buddys tq wrench again to 80-85

dcletten · Post by **dcletten** » Wed Jun 23, 2010 11:52 am

checked timing, its still set at 12. i tweaked the timing map so that the lines arent crossed anymore, made it more uniform, seemed to help its drivability some. let it idle for a good 30 min, it got to 194. took it for a cruise, got it to 212, parked it, let it idle for bout 15 min or so, then dropped back to 209. then i had to get ready for work, so im really not sure what the hell its doing, just running hot? maybe space the hood and headerwrap some things?

sohcd16y8 · Post by **sohcd16y8** » Wed Jun 23, 2010 7:53 pm

How hot is that bottom hose getting? If you are truely overheating and over-running the cooling system it should be baking at 214. If it is still just warm I would really be looking hard at the circ system, mainly the radiator. Also, did you check to see how the hg coolant ports align with the head ports? If they are off it could really restrict flow.

dcletten · Post by **dcletten** » Wed Jun 23, 2010 9:50 pm

sohcd16y8 wrote:How hot is that bottom hose getting? If you are truely overheating and over-running the cooling system it should be baking at 214. If it is still just warm I would really be looking hard at the circ system, mainly the radiator. Also, did you check to see how the hg coolant ports align with the head ports? If they are off it could really restrict flow.

EVERYTHINGS hot under there, heater hoses, and both rad hoses, the bottom does feel slightly cooler than the top, but not much. im kinda thinking the cooling sys just cant keep up and this ebay rad/14in fan ive got just isnt cutting it. i see some people using 1750cfm spal fans and im running an imperial from Advance that flows 1050 when mounted against a rad. 1250 freeflowing. was going to add the 10in i took off and add that as a pusher, but idk how much that will help. headgasket looked like it went on fine. laid it down felpro side up. i always was told OEM honda is just an unlabeled felpro. so tahts why i went that instead of honda or cometic

TopMountGSR · Post by **TopMountGSR** » Thu Jun 24, 2010 3:32 am

Stant thermos, advanced auto fans and felpro head gaskets are junk. No offense but I see these three things cause problems every day. I would slowly work my way towards replacing these items. I'd start with an oem thermo, stock fan or spal 13\" 1700+cfm, tq your head studs to 80 and hope your hg holds up. When it fails, replace it with an oem HG, spray it with copper gasket spray, put honda bond around oil passages. Also make sure air can get up and around your intercooler. Make sure the ic is not directly touching the bumpers plastic around the top of the IC. This normally solves overheating on the interstate. You are pretty local to me, please feel free to use that to your advantage. 859-421-3334, txt or call anytime.

dcletten · Post by **dcletten** » Thu Jun 24, 2010 7:50 am

TopMountGSR wrote:Stant thermos, advanced auto fans and felpro head gaskets are junk. No offense but I see these three things cause problems every day. I would slowly work my way towards replacing these items. ok, fair enough, i work there so it was just easy to go that route I'd start with an oem thermo, stock fan or spal 13" 1700+cfm, tq your head studs to 80 and hope your hg holds up. When it fails, replace it with an oem HG, spray it with copper gasket spray, put honda bond around oil passages. im debating on switching to a misimoto with a shroud then using a 13in spal (eventually, wish i was made of money ). im off tomz, so i will retq everything then. Also make sure air can get up and around your intercooler. Make sure the ic is not directly touching the bumpers plastic around the top of the IC. This normally solves overheating on the interstate. well i do have a huge intercooler, 33x18x3. bumper support is removed, same IC ive always had, but i have thought about it blocking airflow You are pretty local to me, please feel free to use that to your advantage. 859-421-3334, txt or call anytime. i really appreciate that, numbers saved in my phone, youll probably be hearing from me at some point

i really appreciate all everyones doing in this thread, thank you all[/b]

TopMountGSR · Post by **TopMountGSR** » Thu Jun 24, 2010 8:57 am

You should be able to get adequate air flow up and over even some of the largest FMICs with just a little trimming of the bumper in the top areas of the bumpers ic opening. It doesn't take much, as little as 1-2\" will work. You don't want the top of your intercooler touching the top of the back side of the bumper. It doesn't sound like much, but one of my turbo cars a while back would over heat at anything above 75mph on the interstate. ECTs would just start climbing. This car had everything right coolant system wise. I tried everything under the sun and what ended up fixing it was this. So now I make sure on every turbo car I see I can get a few fingers above the top of the IC. That misimoto rad will work just fine, so will a cheaper cx racing dual cores. The shrouds are very nice to have with the spal 13s but honestly, most spals I see on turbo hondas have no shroud and work just fine. On my race car, I have 2 giant zip ties, not going threw the rad but wrapped the rad and fan. I did this just to be quick about it, for ease of removal and not do any permanent damage to anything but it turned out great. I never have any overheating issues what so ever. It has a sleeved block and even on 90 degree days ECTs never get over 194. Its even setup as a pusher fan which is less efficient than a puller. I think the backdoor core size on that car is 30x12x4.5. Your welcome, everyone here just wants to see it work out the for the best. Overheating issues are a pain to deal with but you'l get through them and on to enjoying your car.

dcletten · Post by **dcletten** » Thu Jun 24, 2010 2:32 pm

TopMountGSR wrote:You should be able to get adequate air flow up and over even some of the largest FMICs with just a little trimming of the bumper in the top areas of the bumpers ic opening. It doesn't take much, as little as 1-2" will work. You don't want the top of your intercooler touching the top of the back side of the bumper. interesting theory, i mean its an eg hatch, and ive cut the bumper out as little as possible, so i may just pull it off and cut the hell out of it, or even pull the bumper off and go cruise it to see if thats any better. ive got the ic mounted low enough where i think i can get the flow, but i havent really cut any of the black "finned" area of the bumper so that may not be letting me get any flow upward vs just straight through. hmm well cutting bumper time i suppose. It doesn't sound like much, but one of my turbo cars a while back would over heat at anything above 75mph on the interstate. ECTs would just start climbing. This car had everything right coolant system wise. I tried everything under the sun and what ended up fixing it was this. So now I make sure on every turbo car I see I can get a few fingers above the top of the IC. That misimoto rad will work just fine, so will a cheaper cx racing dual cores. The shrouds are very nice to have with the spal 13s but honestly, most spals I see on turbo hondas have no shroud and work just fine. On my race car, I have 2 giant zip ties, not going threw the rad but wrapped the rad and fan. I did this just to be quick about it, for ease of removal and not do any permanent damage to anything but it turned out great. I never have any overheating issues what so ever. It has a sleeved block and even on 90 degree days ECTs never get over 194. Its even setup as a pusher fan which is less efficient than a puller. I think the backdoor core size on that car is 30x12x4.5. im gonna see what i can get them seperate for, i found a whole kit, misi rad, hoses, shroud and a fan for like 250ish, then just swap fans to an spal. hmm this i will look into Your welcome, everyone here just wants to see it work out the for the best. Overheating issues are a pain to deal with but you'l get through them and on to enjoying your car.

dcletten · Post by **dcletten** » Tue Jun 29, 2010 11:08 am

ok, so i drove around a little this morning(eh hour and half max, max temp 214), with the heat on i can keep it in the 200-212 range. if i turn my heat off, it climbs pretty quick. still the max ive let it get to is 214. i shut the car off for ehhh say 5-10 min with the fan still running. turned it back on and was at 194, cruised 3/4 home and was at 202, turned blower off for say min or two and was back up to 209. this is all in say 70ish degree weather. i havent hit any boost, and am not running through any coolant. and it is 100% water in there right now. was using a bottle of water wetter but from draining the system so much, its getting kinda costly. i just dont see why it fluxuates so much with my blower motor. im 100% stumped, getting to the point where im throwin around the idea of sellin the pos.

Post by **Bugermass** » Tue Jun 29, 2010 1:59 pm

The mishimoto radiators are cheap peices of crap but you can make them work if you have to, but I would advise against using the mishimoto fans. Just buy a spal fan and call it a day. We've been through this many many times on many many cars, best thing.. Get a good quality radiator with a spal fan. Also, make a plate that goes on the bottom of the radiator and intercooler.. You want to prevent the air from going through the intercooler then going down and out between the intercooler and radiator. So block that off so the air HAS to pass through the radiator. Just some ideas.

dcletten · Post by **dcletten** » Tue Jun 29, 2010 5:11 pm

yea im kinda thinkin thats my issue, lookin into buyin a mishi rad(unless someone recommends something better), matching shroud, and the 1710cfm spal fan. just gonna take a major hit in the wallet :-/ oh well, gotsta do what ya gotsta do

Post by **Bugermass** » Tue Jun 29, 2010 7:25 pm

Fluidyne and Koyo make high quality drop in radiators. But with the right fans the Mishimoto will probably do fine.

thething96 · Post by **thething96** » Wed Jun 30, 2010 1:06 pm

I had a GSR with a Type R supercharged running 11-12psi. The original radiator started leaking, so I had a new stock EG half radiator extra, so I adapted the half rad to the boosted setup, and I never had any type of over heating issues. I'm a very \"spirited\" driver\", and even when beating the sh1t out of it, it would hold like a champ, so your radiator might not be the problem. Could it be that your ECT sensor is reading wrong????????????????????????????????

dcletten · Post by **dcletten** » Wed Jun 30, 2010 4:39 pm

well i ordered a new mishi rad, shroud and spal 13in fan today, so should be the end of my issues. what i think happened is the cap on the ebay crappy pos failed and kept pressure in my rad, because its bowed vertically, and my top and bottom tanks started flat and now are bowed out. so i wanna say the rad overheated, tried forcing everything apart, but the horizontal fins wouldnt let the center section bow out, so it forced the vertical passages closed thus limiting my cooling efficiency. at least it fuckin better be or im gonna go insane

. ive never had cooling issues like this either, so i really hope this solves my problems