lean condition on restart

TopMountGSR · Post by **TopMountGSR** » Fri Jul 22, 2011 4:26 pm

Keep those ects down brother! Dual core alum rads, OEM civic fans and spal 13\" fans are your friend! Personally, I flag all mine @ 219 for overheat protection. Its saved me, and a bunch of my customers.

Spawne32 · Post by **Spawne32** » Fri Jul 22, 2011 5:26 pm

im running a twin row heavy duty fullsize radiator i got from radiator barn, double the size of the oem one, and a brand new oem fan on the exhaust side and a 12\" slimfan which will be getting replaced with something better on the passenger side. Cant imagine that wasnt enough but sure enough that temp kept climbing to about the middle of the gauge when i came off the highway. Probably gona need to throw an extra trans cooler in there somewhere for it as well.

JaredKaragen · Post by **JaredKaragen** » Sun Jul 24, 2011 12:07 am

TopMountGSR wrote:Keep those ects down brother! Dual core alum rads, OEM civic fans and spal 13" fans are your friend! Personally, I flag all mine @ 219 for overheat protection. Its saved me, and a bunch of my customers.

I have mine set to a very odd RPM; 2250... this way you can safely pull off the road (if in traffic if need be) and its a very unique number to be redlining at... but that doesn't help when your sitting still. its a tradeoff. It irks me that the CEL function of it doesnt come on.... haven't investigated it further, so I haven't put in an official bug found request. It would be sweet if you could set a CEL for temp, and RPM for a second temp (warning, kill).

Spawne32 · Post by **Spawne32** » Sun Jul 24, 2011 12:22 am

flashing cel would be better i think lol

rich777 · Post by **rich777** » Mon Jul 25, 2011 6:26 am

Just out of interest, have you tried starting a fresh tune to see if the lean/rich condition goes away ? I've had a few strange problems in the past which i couldnt explain which starting a new tune cured.

TopMountGSR · Post by **TopMountGSR** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 3:53 am

JaredKaragen wrote:
TopMountGSR wrote:Keep those ects down brother! Dual core alum rads, OEM civic fans and spal 13" fans are your friend! Personally, I flag all mine @ 219 for overheat protection. Its saved me, and a bunch of my customers.
I have mine set to a very odd RPM; 2250... this way you can safely pull off the road (if in traffic if need be) and its a very unique number to be redlining at... but that doesn't help when your sitting still. its a tradeoff. It irks me that the CEL function of it doesnt come on.... haven't investigated it further, so I haven't put in an official bug found request. It would be sweet if you could set a CEL for temp, and RPM for a second temp (warning, kill).

Good points! That's why I set it so low, so it will let them know at idle. I've found that most of the time it overheats at idle. Sucks however if your in traffic sitting still haha. I just shut it off and make em wait 3-5 min, restart it and go. I've even chug-a-lugged it out of the way with the 750rpm cut going. Luckly if it happens moving, you can just coast to the side. I didn't know their was a cel bug with this feature, Ill try to test it sometime soon. That would be great if it signaled u a few degrees before it shut down.

TopMountGSR · Post by **TopMountGSR** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 4:00 am

Spawne32 wrote:im running a twin row heavy duty fullsize radiator i got from radiator barn, double the size of the oem one, and a brand new oem fan on the exhaust side and a 12" slimfan which will be getting replaced with something better on the passenger side. Cant imagine that wasnt enough but sure enough that temp kept climbing to about the middle of the gauge when i came off the highway. Probably gona need to throw an extra trans cooler in there somewhere for it as well.

Yea that def seems like enough.. Make sure your getting enough air threw your bumper. Had a problem once with a car that would over heat at anything over 70mph cruising. Intercooler was flush at the bumper mouth. The fix ended up being removing 1" of material of the bumpers mouth along the top of the intercooler. So instead of the intercooler touching the mouth all the way around, it now had a 1" gap along the top. Never a overheating problem since. I would also make sure you are using a oem honda brand thermo, my guess is that you may have a autoparts store thermo in it. Those are very tempting and easy to get, but they are very problematic.

JaredKaragen · Post by **JaredKaragen** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 5:16 am

TopMountGSR wrote:
Spawne32 wrote:im running a twin row heavy duty fullsize radiator i got from radiator barn, double the size of the oem one, and a brand new oem fan on the exhaust side and a 12" slimfan which will be getting replaced with something better on the passenger side. Cant imagine that wasnt enough but sure enough that temp kept climbing to about the middle of the gauge when i came off the highway. Probably gona need to throw an extra trans cooler in there somewhere for it as well.
Yea that def seems like enough.. Make sure your getting enough air threw your bumper. Had a problem once with a car that would over heat at anything over 70mph cruising. Intercooler was flush at the bumper mouth. The fix ended up being removing 1" of material of the bumpers mouth along the top of the intercooler. So instead of the intercooler touching the mouth all the way around, it now had a 1" gap along the top. Never a overheating problem since. I would also make sure you are using a oem honda brand thermo, my guess is that you may have a autoparts store thermo in it. Those are very tempting and easy to get, but they are very problematic.

not to mention not the OEM spec for temp... just like plug wires; (I was told about this once) Honda has a patent on the specific ohm spec.... most cheep-o brands don't pay royalties; so they use their own ohm # above or below the patented number. Problems with failing coils anyone?

Spawne32 · Post by **Spawne32** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 6:35 am

Well im actually down for the count right now, had to get towed home yet again. Went for inspection the other day, drove it in fine. After sitting in the line for about a half an hour the car gradually started to lean out while sitting at idle for some reason, ECT and IAT was both normal so no issues there. I slowly progressed from about 14 to about 15.5-15.8 afr over the course of that time. I pulled into the station turned the car off, and handed them the keys, and thats how the car stayed. When they gave the car back to me they said the car would barely start and it was idling at about 3000rpm, i said thats impossible. Sure enough, when i went to start the car it was completely dead, just cranking like crazy, no spark, plenty of fuel, and all the vac caps i had on the s-tube of the supercharger were somehow \"blown\" off like as if it backfired through the intake. After some diagnosis i have the dizzy apart right now, i chcked the ignition coil that i had just replaced and it tested fine, so I am waiting on a new ICM to come in the mail right now and then im gona give that a go. Im firmly believing that as the ICM took a shit that it some how caused the car to fire spark on the ignition stroke making it burp through the intake, through the bypass valve on the intake manifold which would have been open, and forced all my vac caps off the unused vac ports.

Natural Aspirations · Post by **Natural Aspirations** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 5:29 pm

Wasnt someone playing with dwell?

Spawne32 · Post by **Spawne32** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 5:31 pm

Yes, per randy @ RSTECH, but as ive stated repeatedly to those who have been trying to help me with this problem, this has been occurring for months now.

9400RPMS · Post by **9400RPMS** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 7:43 pm

Natural Aspirations wrote:Wasnt someone playing with dwell?

And what would dwell have to do with this..? Hrmm?? Everybody who understands what actual Dwell is.. uses it. AEM,Haltech, proEFI all offer these settings in a much deeper base. I've used it. Bugermass uses it Blunder uses it Randy from RSTECH uses it on all programs Plenty of people use it, when they know what it does. He wasn't running anything un-normal for a dwell setting...had he been running 10 or 12 then yes, your "put down" comment that secretly is meant to point fingers at someone would mean something.. but he was running "2" a suggestion not only by randy, or Arther, but myself.

Natural Aspirations · Post by **Natural Aspirations** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 9:41 pm

Adjusting dwell then ICM (possibly)craps out, just connecting the dots.

Spawne32 · Post by **Spawne32** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 9:44 pm

if its anything related to what most topics say on HT, its because of the fact that i replaced the coil, not from the dwell setting change, dwell varies regardless thats the reason there is a huge table for it with all different numbers across the board.

9400RPMS · Post by **9400RPMS** » Fri Jul 29, 2011 10:28 pm

icms crap out all the time..