Show your wideband!
Moderator: Gaskleppie
- calvin
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- JaredKaragen
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gaskleppie, how far from the end of the tube have you placed your sensor, and how long is the tube itself? I am actually going to recreate this unit because I like it's designs over a regular exhaust clamp because it does not leave a pinch mark on the customer's tailpipe.... I just got my LC-1 in the mail for doing CROME tunes; but I will also be using it on my car alot of the time as well... I have a feeling I will get pulled over asking what the hell is sticking out of my tailpipe =)
95 Sol Si : D16z6 : TD04H-13C 74 Civic 1200 : 100% Stock
- Gaskleppie
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- JaredKaragen
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eh, my sensor is about 3\" from the end; if I need more pipe, Ill add it =P Here's a pic of the beginning of it: only thing left is clamp-down plates; I will be making 2, one for small pipe, one for big pipe. I like your idea of putting a DB9 on the end of a serial cable for the unit; makes alot of sense. I will be running that to a DB9 mounted on the ECU case and internally it will provede the ground direct to the ECU via the white wire, and a second cable with the power clips as you have them. Only difference will be a perminantly mounted USB->DB9 on the serial cable (which will probably want an extension to be long enough and not have too long of a USB cable).
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95 Sol Si : D16z6 : TD04H-13C 74 Civic 1200 : 100% Stock
- Gaskleppie
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- JaredKaragen
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Yeah, I see what you mean =) And... exactly =) I was probably going to run a seperate power cord, because the serial cable will be running alongside the wideband cable too... but we will see where that one leads. I could just run the top row of pins solely for power, and run the ground through the shielding/outer casing of the 9-pin connector... this way I know it won't melt-down ever... serial cable wires can be pretty thin sometimes. I know my next ostrich is going to be a V2 so that I can fit it inside the ECU (secure it with hot glue or epoxy) and also a logger and USB hub internal so it will be a truely plug-and-play aside from running the extra wire to the battery for the LC-1 =) Here's something funny; My LC1's serial cable (2.5mm to DB9) has the Tx andRx pins reversed... haha. Go Innovate!
95 Sol Si : D16z6 : TD04H-13C 74 Civic 1200 : 100% Stock
- Bindegal
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My Master once told me that running power for the wideband from the ECU harness could cause problems on some cars. To be honest, I never tried it myself though. I´d rather just spend that extra minute and do it properly (directly from battery terminals). Well worth the effort, if for nothing else then just peace of mind. /Allan
- JaredKaragen
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The power would be running through a shielded DB9 cable, into the ECU, and the 2 outputs from the LC1 would be used; one to an external plug-in port, and the other hard-wired into the ECU. The +12V line would be run out of the case to the battery with clamp and the GND would be soldered to the ECU board, and the other side of it would be able to be grounded to the inside of the ECU. The ECU holder on the chassis in the vehicle will be where it will link to ground; out the same plug the +12V source is coming from. I already have a few universal test-pipes; one for OEM cat replacement (3 bolt flange and flared end with 2 bolt flange for the DP, and another that is a 2.5\" test pipe with standard flanges not OEM. Maybe once I start doing enough street tunes with CROME I might bite the bullet and investigate a tuner's eCtune license... but that is way down the road....
95 Sol Si : D16z6 : TD04H-13C 74 Civic 1200 : 100% Stock
I decided to make my LC-1 less 'perminant' than it comes. I got a cheap project box from Radioshack and went to town. One reason I liked the LC-1, aside from the price and ability to use the SSi-4 for other sensors, is that I can use the small O-Meter to monitor AFR's. I have it velcro'd to a bracket with suction cups that I put right above the steering wheel. Makes for very safe street tuning. One thing to note on that box's size - its packed! I maintained the full length of every wire, just in case... Power is right from the battery via ring terminals and the tinned wire ends in screw-down terminals (5A fuse inline with switch), with the LED showing it's status. The O2 terminal hooks to a wire I have soldered inside the ecu, but lets me use other methods if I have a diff ecu. I can also get wide/narrowband output at the flip of a switch, although the O-Meter always gets wideband. I can also recalibrate easily, or view errors quickly. The last thing is the extension cable. Xenocron sold me half a bad o2 sensor, and I mated it to my old PLX extension. I might go ahead and make one of those tailpipe sniffers if I do several cars this year. All mine have 2 bungs near the axles, but this would make a quick tune check really quick. Besides the sensor, I can have the rest hooked up in a minute (literally!).
- Gaskleppie
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