eCtune

When I roll my key up to the \"On\" position, my CEL does the 2 second on, then off (fuel pump prime) like normal. It is then immediately followed by three quick flashes of the CEL after the initial 2 second illumination is complete. I'm able to start the car and it runs fine and I don't have any actual CEL codes. I've had this behavior since I switched to OBD1 and eCtune. Anyone have any idea what these three flashes signify? Just some info on my setup if it helps: 91 CRX Si B18A P28 Ostrich v1 HULOG LC-1 eCtune v. 0.0.2.1 r9

It signifies the version of eCtune you have. Completely normal

Fantastic. I wasn't sure what it was, but knew everything was running correctly with the car. Thanks for helping a noob out.

NP

Calvin; what ae the chances of getting a little disable for that.... I would like to pass SMOG in cali without having to explain to the smog guy the 3 blinks are not a code... lol.

It's protection for and me.. i won't disable that.

eCtune is for off-road use only

nate wrote:eCtune is for off-road use only

Looks like I will need to pay a tuner to do my car up near smog time If there was one in Cali... but alas; CROME can do that 4 me Thanks for the heads up!

there are ways around everything... a 556 timer and a TTL driven NC relay will do it. (eCtune can only control what's connected to the ECU) Then again this is all for offroad use only.

relic1 wrote:there are ways around everything... a 556 timer and a TTL driven NC relay will do it. (eCtune can only control what's connected to the ECU) Then again this is all for offroad use only.

It's a hint... but it's a good one. There are many way's to achief this. * 555 or 556 timer * RC circuit as timer circuit * RC circuit as frequency filter to filter out the short blinks of the MIL and pass the long ones. Use the 555 in monostable mode. "Power Triggered Monostable" as we speak. Leave the reset switch and replace the trigger swich (pin 2) by a 0.01uf to 0.1uF cap. Set the time to two seconds by using a POT meter at R1. Add a relay and/or transistor at the output and you will have a nice base circuit for a fake MIL during SMOG tests. T = 1.1 × R1 × C1 T must be around 2 seconds R1 must be someware between 1k to 1M C1 must be choosen first, as there are just a few (say 220uF) 2 = 1.1 x R1 x 220E-6 R1 = 2 / (1.1 x 220E-6) R1 = 2 / (1.1 x 0.00022) R1 = 9090 Ohm (based on E12 this would be 8k2 or 10k, or beter.. a 10k pot) Here is an other example: Leave the red LED and beeper out. Short the switch in the top right corner. Replace the the green LED by a transistor and/or relay. Note... this one is for 9v... your car can produce up to 14.5v

* RC circuit as frequency filter to filter out the short blinks of the MIL and pass the long ones.

would also filter out your CEL flashing functionality.

* RC circuit as timer circuit

fine if you don't want your CEL connected to the ECU. see I'm even more picky than that... A 556 works perfectly, one side of the timer waits ~2 seconds after ignition on, then opens the NC reed relay, second side of 556 waits ~2 seconds before resetting the first timer and releasing the relay. (pots in place to adjust timers so you can fine tune when things happen) This interrupts the CEL line just after the normal on period, then reconnects it again after the flashing stops. This way if you have a legit CEL, shift light, etc... it's still connected. When I made the frist post, I didn't want to give out too many details and piss of calvin. That flashing is there for a reason. (liability) But now that I thought about it more, since we'd be knowingly doing this to disable what is in place to protect them... it's on us if anything goes wrong.