*FIXED* Weird Idle, going rich then lean, then rich

[TopMountGSR]

Please help, I hate to bother you all with this because my car runs excellent on ectune.. but. After I tuned my car to idle in the 15.5 afr range Sometimes it idles in the 9.8 afr range, sometimes 16.0 afr and anything in between. Say I pull up to a stop light, its idling @ 15.2 afr Next stop light [say 150ft away] its idling @ 9.6 afr. I watch my iat's and ect's and they don't change more than a degree tops when this happens. Its just my idle, My partial throttle and boost afrs stay the same afr that I tuned them to. Please help, I have 1000cc precisions with a resistor box and am wondering if an injector driver box would help me out here.

[JaredKaragen]

lc-1?

[Adam Hopkins]

I am going to say that your battery tables need tweaking, do you have an underdrive pulley?

[TopMountGSR]

I have a ngk powerdex wideband When you say my battery tables need adjusting.. By that I need to redo the injector calibration and re-adjust the injector offset? To set this I just load the electrical system down, ex: turn on everything I can, lights, heater, ect.. and adjust till I get the desired AFR @ idle.. right? Thanks for the replies guys dk

[TopMountGSR]

I was lookin though the program and actually found the 'battery offset table' of which I have never messed with. Do I need to adjust this? Do you think this is related to voltage varying from stop light to stop light? I will start paying attention to the voltage when I get these rich idles and start tweaking the tables if need be. Any tips on this? Thanks for your time I have so much to learn but yet its so fun to control all this.

[Adam Hopkins]

In a nut shell yes, I dont know how long it has been since you have changed the injector offsets, the reason I say that is because I know calvin has done some moving around of these tables in the code. Go back into ectune and re-select the injectors you have and then retune from there. Does that make sense?

[TopMountGSR]

I just changed the injector offsets in the injector calibration because I was driving my car one day and all of a sudden it started loading up and died [didn't change a thing, ran this tune for weeks], it started poping cracking, wouldn't go, wouldn't idle nothing.. Finally keep starting it over and over got it to go but not idle.. So I while I was driving I turned the injector offset up to 96FV from 88FV and it started idling fine. So I deleted the cal file and started over when I got home. I am now at 78FV and for some reason the map is a whole lot smoother and it actually runs smoother. Now I just have this weird idle problem of it getting rich or lean. So should I go up or down a click on the + or - buttons [In injector calibration], drive it and see if the AFR idle fluctuation gets better or worse? Thanks again. I have attached my cal file if anyone is interested.

[Gaskleppie]

Maybe a rotten FPR?

[calvin]

i did a multiple 1000cc precision without problems... esp not like this.. battery tables tune? alternator bad? Gaskleppie had to tune his battery table due to underdrive pulleys

[TopMountGSR]

It has a d16 oem fpr on it, I have a oem h23 fpr I will try and I also have other alternators as well. I have never messed with the battery tables at all, just left them how they came. I am runnin an oem gsr crank pulley, oem alt pulley and oem p/s pulley I hope to get this straitened out, its my only real problem so far. I just don't understand why it runs great in partial throttle/medium load and under boost but the idle sucks.

[Adam Hopkins]

Because your battery tables need adjustment. Once you get above 1500-2000 rpm your voltage becomes stable and usually stays at about 13.8 to 14.0v.(the reason your air fuels are consistant at part and full throttle) At the lower rpm the alternator can not charge enough to keep your voltage constant and then injector dead time become more critical. There is a read that xeno posted on this forum on this exact topic that is pretty good, try and find that and it will help you understand what exactly is going on. Basically an injector at 12 volts firing at 20 milliseconds is going to produce less fuel than the same injector firing for 20 milliseconds at 14 volts. The higher the voltage the less time it takes the injector open, thus creating more fuel. Go into your battery tables and tweak the values until you get a consistant a/f at idle and I am pretty sure the inconsistancy will go away. do you have closed loop enabled?

[z31]

http://forum.ectune.com/viewtopic.php?t=563&highlight= There you go that's the post Adam was talking about. Good info and worth the time to read.

[TopMountGSR]

Thanks a bunch guys, I will read up on that for sure. What your saying def makes sense and is worth a shot. I do not have closed loop enabled Thanks again for the link, I will update this thread soon.

[TopMountGSR]

Tried a different FPR, didn't help Tried messing with the battery tables, no help. Its always got the cell all the way to the left highlighted when it idles fine and when it idles pig rich. I tried adjusting some up and some down nothing seems to affect it. The lowest I have seen the voltage is 13.8-13.9v the highest I have seen it is 14.19-14.21v I am going to slap my crome chip back in tom and see if I have the same problems with it. I'm not going back to crome I am just trying to narrow down were the prob is. I will also try to mess with the injector cal. and take it up a point and see if that helps. Any other suggestions more than welcome, thanks for your time. dk also my car is randomly dieing all the time, not sure about that. ex at stop lights a bunch, starts right back up however.

[greasemonkee]

Lemme guess, resistorless plugs? Have logs of when it dies? My fueling at part throttle does the same thing, but will only fluctuate 1 point or so, all other variables eliminated - might be the same issue I'm dealing with; EMF interference? Might consider throwing a set of bkr7e's in to eliminate this possibility.