eCtune

After getting a few PM's, I have cut and paste a pretty good message I got from an eCtune user; And I figured it might come up some more. hope it helps some folks!

An eCtune User wrote:how are you supposed to know how to hook this up? there is no documentation for it. No but it is pretty self explanatory. Looking at the program you can see the inputs the ECU can use for that routine; and all you need to do is look to see what type of input tot he ECU that is: voltage, ground, +12v, etc. i thought i read somewhere but now i cant find it searching this site...that you have to do something with a clutch input? In ectune all i see is an clutch input selection... say i select AC request b5, as the input for that.. *Everyone likes to use the parking brake input... what wire do i actually run to pin b5 to get this to work? Have you done it? One side of the switch goes to ground, and one is switched to ground; you need to wire into the side that is switched to ground, not constant. Got a link to some documentation it by any chance? Best place around: http://forum.pgmfi.org; Search.. trust me; it has been covered there many times! FTS has been a part of several applications out there. Thats only the beginning....then i have to know what the heck "shift rpm" is...is it the rpm which u want to shift at? or is the rpm that the engine will go to when u have your foot on the pedal and you put the car in neutral(ie full throttle shifting) Shift RPM: what RPM do you want the ECU to cut fuel untill; I.E. 5,000RPM is a good point where when you go from redline in 3rd, you'll end up at around 5,000RPM in 4th.... so you set your FTL RPM to something lower than redline so it does it's job. Then what about FTS antilag? I dont even know where to begin with this.. I dont wana get in to antilag for now actually..i might after i get FTS working initially. Antilag is antilag; FTS antilag is just FTS when antilag is on; so.... you can probably understand that, and why it is used.... cause if you didn't even get to the 5,000 RPM that it was set at, and you release the clutch and give it gas you get a huge explosion out the back (when antilag is tuned right) as it is going into next gear and you get boost when you need it! Should i check "limit at rpm when pressed"? what the hell does this actually mean... rev limit at the rpm (in the box ) when FTS is engaged? This was covered a few times in the forum; please search... I know you;ll find it Calvin is not very clear explaining things at all, and it shows in the program. Heh; Well, he's not out to write an extensive manual on tuning; he writes the software... He is expecting people who want to tune to have a knowledge of what they are doing; only specific perticulars like EBC routines, etc he explains a little more in detail.

thanks for giving support to users

there are 2 clutch switches in an EX/LX. Cruise control has a switch that activates/switches when you barely depress the clutch; the other is the interlock for the starter; to make sure it's pressed in all the way... 1.So wouldn't you ideally want to use cruise control one? Since it would have faster reaction time than the one for starting the car? Otherwise you think it would hit rev limiter first since you may not push the clutch in fast enough for it to recognize it should only go to FTS rpm limit, and not Rev limit. 2.What if your car doesn't normally come with cruise control? Then what do you do? You stuck using starter one, then you run into the problems in (1)?Maybe? 3.Say you have Are using the starter one as your clutch input, do you just select b9 as clutch input and then your done? Or do you have to run a wire from that switch on the clutch pedal to b9? If so, what do you do? splice into existing wire? because if not won't you lose the actual purpose that the switch is there for in the first place? I think the most confusing part about the post above is that it sounds like you wire in just any old regular on/off switch...which is counter intuitive, because you are not getting any input from the clutch at all, you would just be flicking a switch...which to me doesn't make any sense. Hopefully these questions being answered might help some people

EDM cars don't have any switch i buy a clutch switch and wire it in. Simple

combz wrote:there are 2 clutch switches in an EX/LX. Cruise control has a switch that activates/switches when you barely depress the clutch; the other is the interlock for the starter; to make sure it's pressed in all the way... 1.So wouldn't you ideally want to use cruise control one? Since it would have faster reaction time than the one for starting the car? Otherwise you think it would hit rev limiter first since you may not push the clutch in fast enough for it to recognize it should only go to FTS rpm limit, and not Rev limit. 2.What if your car doesn't normally come with cruise control? Then what do you do? You stuck using starter one, then you run into the problems in (1)?Maybe? 3.Say you have Are using the starter one as your clutch input, do you just select b9 as clutch input and then your done? Or do you have to run a wire from that switch on the clutch pedal to b9? If so, what do you do? splice into existing wire? because if not won't you lose the actual purpose that the switch is there for in the first place? I think the most confusing part about the post above is that it sounds like you wire in just any old regular on/off switch...which is counter intuitive, because you are not getting any input from the clutch at all, you would just be flicking a switch...which to me doesn't make any sense. Hopefully these questions being answered might help some people

Cruise control; yeah! It's right at the end of the movement.... can be picky sometimes cause you can't accidentally rest your foot on the clutch), and normal FTS actions are slam the clutch in, immediately throw it in gear, and just release the clutch and let it pop back... As far as switching wires; well, you just need to tap into the wiring; make that switch send ground to the FTS input as well; not totally redirect it. A multimeter is your friend here! Yeah; flicking a switch would definitely take alot of the automation out of it; And the starter interlock switch will work; it will react differently, but will work.... depends on how fast your foot is A hint for ECU inputs: Most of them are simple: PSP (Power Steering), Brake, Etc. The way to interpret how to use the individual inputs is to look at the car's manual and find out the wiring for the original sensor; in these cases all of the sensors ground the ECU pin... on some they send +12v to the ecu pin (which isn't the smartest for a chassis ground setup in a car, if you get a break in the wire it will short easily, ground to ground nullifies the "short") And yeah; it is very easy to add the cruise control switch to the clutch!

excellent, thanks so now all thats left if to figure out if that starter clutch switch is ground switched. If it is then i assume i am okay with everything... i may try it with that switch at first and see how the reaction time is. If i find its not working good enough i may put in another one, or if possible move the location of the starter switch if possible (to where the cruis control switch would normally be).

testlight will confirm, but yes, switched to ground like most of hondas sensors/switches (safer wiring)

i just meant...i have to find out which wire is the one i run to the harness...so i gota test it. It was really hard to see, but i peeked at it last night..it appears the current switch is adjustable, meaning if i can adjust it so that it grounds sooner, the reaction might be faster and better. Still too much to do before i can play with this...my other civic died two days ago..so i dont wana mess too much with the black one right now..

JaredKaragen wrote:testlight will confirm, but yes, switched to ground like most of hondas sensors/switches (safer wiring)

Does that mean that I can make a simple switch which makes a ground connection between ECU pin and clutch pedal, when it is pressed? I have an EDM and no clutch switches at all.

yeah; It should be easy to procure a simple switch that will attach to the clutch bracket by the pedal; the provisions for the switch should be there, so adding one is no big deal. yup; just switch to ground

The only problem is to let the switch switch at exact the right moment. When you slam the clutch it dont need to be so precise, but when you want to eeze up a bit and want to switch gear slower a wrong switching point can give strange behavior.

But if I slam the clutch pedal and release throttle nothing happens right? I mean normal driving and shifting is still possible.