FYI I do plan on using the closed loop feature (for boost by gear) once tuned, but for faster initial tuning I want to use the open loop deal.EBC - open loop?
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HiProfile
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EBC - open loop?
How stable is boost with the basic open loop EBC? Does it creep or drop any more than a decent MBC?? By open loop I mean the constant duty cycle feature where you set a fixed duty cycle %. I've never had a chance to use the EBC due to other issues (in life, not in eCtune). The reason I ask is because I've had some friends have me tune their eCtune packages. I like to tune multiple boost columns, not just their current PSI goal. I've used the cheap brass MBC which works great, but it wastes so much time trying to target the right boost. Running 2 wires and changing a software setting on the fly will make it FAR easier when I'm working with my friends. Its bad enough dealing with their slow laptops... FYI I do plan on using the closed loop feature (for boost by gear) once tuned, but for faster initial tuning I want to use the open loop deal.
FYI I do plan on using the closed loop feature (for boost by gear) once tuned, but for faster initial tuning I want to use the open loop deal.
Last edited by HiProfile on Sat Mar 07, 2009 10:35 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: EBC - open loop?
I dont think I'd use the ebc to tune.HiProfile wrote:How stable is boost with the basic open loop EBC? Does it creep or drop any more than a decent MBC?? By open loop I mean the constant duty cycle feature where you set a fixed duty cycle %. I've never had a chance to use the EBC due to other issues (in life, not in eCtune). The reason I ask is because I've had some friends have me tune their eCtune packages. I like to tune multiple boost columns, not just their current PSI goal. I've used the cheap brass MBC which works great, but it wastes so much time trying to target the right boost. Running 2 wires and changing a software setting on the fly will make it FAR easier when I'm working with my friends. Its bad enough dealing with their slow laptops...
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greasemonkee
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I prefer to use a good MBC and set it high, run a hose from the top port of the wastegate to inside the car hooked up to a brake bleeder vacuum pump with the chamber in place - that lets the wategate valve travel without significantly altering the pressure on the upper side of the diaphragm. Suck a full vacuum-(full as possible) until gate opens then tune the ambient pressure column, release a smidge of vacuum with the valve on the pump and tune the next column up. Keep removing vacuum until at ambient pressure on upper wastegate port, then you're at full boost. This is my cockeyed method which works well for me. I imagine there may be some degree of error, probably negligible. Since the throttle plate position has no direct relationship to airflow at X rpm as on a NA engine, it can only be made close, not perfect.
Thats a good idea, how much vacuum have you been able to pull with it?greasemonkee wrote:I prefer to use a good MBC and set it high, run a hose from the top port of the wastegate to inside the car hooked up to a brake bleeder vacuum pump with the chamber in place - that lets the wategate valve travel without significantly altering the pressure on the upper side of the diaphragm. Suck a full vacuum-(full as possible) until gate opens then tune the ambient pressure column, release a smidge of vacuum with the valve on the pump and tune the next column up. Keep removing vacuum until at ambient pressure on upper wastegate port, then you're at full boost. This is my cockeyed method which works well for me. I imagine there may be some degree of error, probably negligible. Since the throttle plate position has no direct relationship to airflow at X rpm as on a NA engine, it can only be made close, not perfect.
