eCtune

hey guys, Have a few questions creating a basemap. Just finished my 2 liter sleeved gsr build. My buddy and I created a basemap using a p72 ectune base map,evo 560cc injectors pink tops, and AEM uego wideband... here are our settings. old injector size: 240cc new injector size: 560cc overall fuel trim: 0 injector battery offset: using dsm 450cc for 95-99 eclipses 2 ohm.... is this right? injector offset adjustments have not been touched. so 0 WHAT should my Fuel Multiplier be? HOW Do we set the overall fuel trim correctly? WHAT injector battery offset should we be using for evo 560cc injectors? HOW do we correctly set injector offset adjustments? Heres how far we have come thus far. If we make a basemap with these settings for our fuel, the car starts up but idles incredibly rough and the AFR is like 20.0: 1 lean, so we increase the fuel by selecting the whole map and increasing the fuel by hitting the up fuel arrow button probably 10 to 15 times and finally get the car to idle at 14.0 AFR to 15.5 AFR. MY question is are we doing this correctly? we got the idle pretty steady , drove it down the street in first and second gear NO BOOST and the AFR is all over the place like 14.5 to 20 afr. I know we need to tune for vacuum but should the afrs be all over the place like this. This is all low load and first and second gear we are not boosting it because we do not want to damage the engine. The engine has 0 miles on it we let it run for an hour idling at 1300 rpms with an AFR of 14.0 AFR to 15 AFR. Thanks guys

Fuel multiplier is the difference between the basemap and your engine. So if you took a 1.8liter basemap and now you have a 2.0liter thats roughly 15%. Did you used the boost scaler setup? Did you select your map sensor. Those things are very important before you start. Post you cal please.....

absolutely... we selected stock honda map sensor because that is what we are running at the moment. we also selected 10 columns for boost, 1.25 degrees retard per pound of boost and boost cut at 12 psi. Just need to figure out the injector settings and what not. when you say 1.8 to 2.0 are you saying overall fuel trim needs to be +15%.

yes. And maybe even a bit higher because these big injectors have a it of lag and react not as fast as smaller one's. But you can also leave it at 0 and take the whole map and add 15%. Doesnt matter what you do. Just get it to the right AF. Dont forget to adjust the high cam map the same as you do with the low cam map.

ok i will definitely give that a shot, what about the battery offset? since there isnt a selection for evolution 560cc injectors will dsm 450s battery offset be about right. be about right? How do i tune the battery offset table i know it has something to do with disconnecting the alternator and testing the lights and fan. I dont have heat or ac... Once i get the car idling what is my next step to get the car safely drivable. I would appreciate any help.

I would not take the DSM injector as a base. That one is peak & hold, I think yours is saturated. Maybe the 550cc from RC is better. But you can always check if the battery table is right by disconnecting the alternator and leave the motor running at idle in open loop. In the meanwhile the battery will be losing power and the voltage will be dropping. Check if the AF is staying the same when the voltage drops. If not, correct the battery table.

i did some research and it seems the evo 560cc injectors are peak and hold from various web sites. They are pink top injectors.

alright i went to the garage today and started a new basemap old injectors: 240cc new injectors: 560cc 20% overall fuel trim stock map sensor battery offset for dsm 450s 10 boost columns 1 degree retard per pound of boost 12 psi boost cut uploaded my calibration and started the car. it ran very lean at first but started up without hicups. I then went to injector calibration and up'd injector offset until i got the car to idle nice and stoich at 14.6 to 14.9 AFRs. My injector offset if i can remember was somewhere around 21.75 to 22. I then richened up the low cam map and hi cam map a few clicks to make sure i wouldnt go lean and went for a ride. The car drove great i didnt take it past 4000 rpm just partial throttle watching the wideband in first and second gear. It stayed pretty rich like 13.5s to high 11's lol i know this needs work. So i think im off to a good start as far as a basemap. How does this sound? whats next?

Your going the right direction!. Now that you see that partial throttle driving is a bit rich, lower the overall fuel trim so that the normal driving part of the map is pretty ok. You will need to change the idle part, but thats quite easy to do. Personally I always keep the overall fuel correction as small as possible. If you see that the last NA column is quite ok running in the 13's you can adjust the boost part by using the boost setup tool in the tools menu. Now you got 120% boost compensation. Play with that one to get the boost part of the map roughly ok. When its all pretty ok, start fine tuning from there. So your injectors are peak & hold? Ok, choosing the DSM 450's is maybe the best. sorry..

Alright thanks man! I have a few more questions so is it not a good idea to have so much overall fuel enrichment? if I back it off and up injector offset will the offset compensate for decreasing the fuel enrichment? How exactly do i get the normal driving part of the map to a target afr of 13.5 :1. Through the tools of ectune as far as changing the cells accurately?. a step process would be great. Once i get this accomplished i need to start making boost pulls. How will i know im safe and wont go lean? The boost part scares me a bit. Some explanation of the datalogging feature trace map maybe would help? I have yet to hook up the analog output of my aem uego. Will ectune beable to calculate accurately the percentage of fuel i need to change. I just dont want to break anything.

what kind of fuel pressure am i looking for on my fuel pressure regulator at idle and load? It is an aem unit with aem fuel rail. How do i adjust this fuel pressure right now it is 35 psi at idle? When tuning how do i even out the normal driving portion of the map so that i can keep the afr consistently in the 13's i am very new to this. Thanks for your help Gaskleppie! You have really helped me out.

any help on these above topics guys. Thanks a bunch

Your supposed to get the car to idle by adjusting the offset, not by playing with the map. I would start over. Get the car to idle with the battery offset first. If its lean, just increase the # until you get stable idle or stoich. Then go and do some part throttle and increase the overall multiplier if its to lean/ to rich vise versa. Getting the battery offset right is the most important part to getting the tune right.

how do i set it and what exactly is the overall multiplier? this does not involve adding fuel to the entire map i assume but adjusting my old injector size and new injector size settings to richen up the fuel map? I'm a little confused. Could you give me an example. Thanks.

Under injector calibration its the injector multiplier box. You increase this until it idles right. Once its good, if you think the entire map needs more fuel, adjust the box below that under overall fuel trim. They arent the same thing. This is from Xenocrons Crome startup guide: \"OFFSET is an additive multiplier that applied to the Battery Voltage Offset tables. This number in combination with the Final Fuel Multiplier value is critical to getting the maps extremely close from the start, as well as proper idling properties. When you first start the car on the basemap, use these two values only to get the car to start and idle properly before changing ANY of the fuel values in the maps. Use whole numbers in the offset box but understand that what you are doing is adding a pulse of the number you add times divided by 100. For example, we added 45 to our offset box to start, which means we are adding 0.45 to our battery offset tables.\"