ebc no/nc wire polarity?
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- jpjackson
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ebc no/nc wire polarity?
ok, my mac solenoid works great but it is a nc solenoid from xenocron, and in the ebc settings i have to set it as no for it to work, that is no problem, the problem is, that every time i hook up my laptop it automaticlly changes its self back to nc. now both of the wires coming out of the solenoid are both black, so i assume it doesnt matter how they are hooked up? or does it? so since i have to run this normally closed solenoid as a normally open one, can i assume that the polarity of the solenid does matter? i havent had time to switch the wires yet but i am just curious. it is a pita to remember to go in and switch it to no every time i hook up my laptop, i have forgot a couple of times and shoot strait to boost cut. the solenoid works great but is there any one here that is able to run the mac solenoid as normally closed or is it just backwards in the software? or do the wires need to be switched? thanks for the help guys!!
Universal Technical Institute Hot rod University graduate ASE Master Certified Automotive Tech Honda and Acura factory certified 9 years and counting in the automotive field
- IHaveTurbos
- <font color=red>eCtune Authorized Dealer</font><br><font color=green>eCtune Authorized Tuner</font>
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2009 5:07 am
- Location: AZ
It is backwards in the software, so don't rewire your solenoid. We told Calvin about it on sat so it should be changed in the next release.
Tim - Owner of Turbo Elements www.turboelements.com Dynocom DC-1800sz-SE
cool, just checking, i was pretty sure that is what it was but i just wanted to be sure. the solenoid is awesome, i love it. out of all the after market electric boost controllers out there that cost $350-$1000, this cheep little solenoid out shines and out performs them all. f***king awesome. i love it off subject, i am trying to tweak my rpm duty comp map to control creep better, would you have any suggestions for me, this is what i was trying as of last night but i havent had time to mess with it this morning.
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Universal Technical Institute Hot rod University graduate ASE Master Certified Automotive Tech Honda and Acura factory certified 9 years and counting in the automotive field
i am running a SOHC ZC, vitara set up, with a xspower t3, tubular manifold, 3 inch dp, new waste gate i just put on this weekend, its a ebay gate with a 4 lbs spring but it works great so far, once i start passing 55k it starts creeping 3-4 lbs, ive hit boost cut a couple of times. just curious with you being a tuner, have you tuned any setups like this? i know i need to do some port work on the waste gate primary, but i havent hade time to drop the turbo yet and i am waiting to have time because i am going to make a new down pipe.
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Universal Technical Institute Hot rod University graduate ASE Master Certified Automotive Tech Honda and Acura factory certified 9 years and counting in the automotive field
- IHaveTurbos
- <font color=red>eCtune Authorized Dealer</font><br><font color=green>eCtune Authorized Tuner</font>
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2009 5:07 am
- Location: AZ
unfortunately with that setup your going to have creep just with the design of the manifold and the poor wastegate placement.
Tim - Owner of Turbo Elements www.turboelements.com Dynocom DC-1800sz-SE
- IHaveTurbos
- <font color=red>eCtune Authorized Dealer</font><br><font color=green>eCtune Authorized Tuner</font>
- Posts: 41
- Joined: Thu Feb 19, 2009 5:07 am
- Location: AZ
The wastegate placement off the turbo manifold is terrible. the exhaust has to make a 180 to exit out so the reason your getting so much creep is the exhaust is going to go the path of least resistance in this case the turbine wheel which causes the creep. There is really no way to fix it with that manifold.
Tim - Owner of Turbo Elements www.turboelements.com Dynocom DC-1800sz-SE
well i guess i will be building my own manifold, thanks for the input guys, my waste gate i had before was a tial 38mm but the diaphragm was leaking and the price of a new one, i just got a new gate, and the valve housing on the eBay one is actually bigger than the tial, so i dont think the gate is my problem. when i did change the gate i did notice that there is alot of material in the primary that can be removed so i just think i need to do some port work and it would make it at least a little better. i mean the creep is manageable, my engine can handle it, she is fully built so. but also isn't the rpm duty compensation table there for managing creep, and boost dropping off at high rpm for small turbos? than was my main question on how to set that up, so if i put in negative values, wont that drop the duty cycle of the ebc to compensate for creep, and also closed loop? i am still playing with the fixed duty to dial in my look up tables so i havent messed with closed loop yet. thanks guys
Universal Technical Institute Hot rod University graduate ASE Master Certified Automotive Tech Honda and Acura factory certified 9 years and counting in the automotive field