Main Relay Clicks all the time
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Main Relay Clicks all the time
Well i've been tuning a lot today but ran into a problem. When i have the ostrich 1 connected or disconnected the main relay clicks then my idle surges and it keeps clicking even though i am doing nothing to the cal. So im pretty much stuck with relay clicking and a surging engine. Oh and my datalogging is all screwy to. It only works when the KOEO but as soon as i turn the car on it stops working. so i basically tune just reading my wideband. heres the cal...
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- JaredKaragen
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okay well the constant clicking is gone now but only does it when i tune. funny it never did it before i could make changes to the fuel map and it would not click and surge. datalogging is not working at all (not ectunes fault). It only worked for about a week when i got it back in 2005. Like i said before it still connects to the ecu when KOEO but when i start the engine it stops. Im a computer technician and its so frustrating when i cant get this hardware to work. so im guessing its either the cable thats connects to the ecu or the hulog itself.
- JaredKaragen
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Okay added about 5 grounds. Alternator to frame, distributor to negative battery, Inatake Manifold to frame, added another transmission ground, and a starter ground. Still did not fix the datalogging but it did smooth the car throughout the rpm range. Question the coil i have is similar to the msd blaster coil 2. Can i take the ground off of the positive connection on the coil and put it on the frame? When i got the coil it said to put both the positive and negative on the positive end and the tach on the negative. Oh and the relay clicks after i connect the hulog now. Do i have to reset the ecu after i connect and disconnect to keep it from clicking? oh i also have nology cool wires could those create a high emi?
- JaredKaragen
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it is known msd products add emi, especially if near the distributor pickups.. I believe this may be the bulk of your problem... Oem works awesome honestly.92bluepreludesi wrote:Okay added about 5 grounds. Alternator to frame, distributor to negative battery, Inatake Manifold to frame, added another transmission ground, and a starter ground. Still did not fix the datalogging but it did smooth the car throughout the rpm range. Question the coil i have is similar to the msd blaster coil 2. Can i take the ground off of the positive connection on the coil and put it on the frame? When i got the coil it said to put both the positive and negative on the positive end and the tach on the negative. Oh and the relay clicks after i connect the hulog now. Do i have to reset the ecu after i connect and disconnect to keep it from clicking? oh i also have nology cool wires could those create a high emi?
95 Sol Si : D16z6 : TD04H-13C 74 Civic 1200 : 100% Stock
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Yea thats what i thought. The reason why i was using this coil is because my oem one cracked and started arching. So i guess i will have to invest in a new or reman here soon. I have never changed the batteries in the ostrich suprised they lasted this long. Would em i looking for on the ribbon cable near the eprom?
- JaredKaragen
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Look at the area where the ribbon cable mates to the ostrich connector and EEPROM connector.. Your looking for excessive bending/stress on the area where the pins on the connector poke throughthe ribbon cable..... Since it is a crimped fit, it is very easy for it to oxidize and create a bad contact over time. 3 times now I have had to cut my cable shorter and re crimp it as to have good connections again.... But for the normal user it is alot easier to just buy a new cable from moates.... They are relatively inexpensive.
95 Sol Si : D16z6 : TD04H-13C 74 Civic 1200 : 100% Stock
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- Posts: 52
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- Location: sa
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- Posts: 52
- Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2009 1:42 am
- Location: sa
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- Posts: 52
- Joined: Tue Jan 20, 2009 1:42 am
- Location: sa