Sputtering!

crx303 · Post by **crx303** » Sun Jan 30, 2011 4:26 am

Ok here's my problem. I had some issues with my head gasket (overheating, oil in expansion tank), but I could drive normally (CRX B16A1 OBD1, Greddy turbo, Zeitronix WBO2 closed loop operation, eCtune). Then it started to sputter when I hit the throttle hard, like there was no spark or fuel, untill it was hardly drivable and stalled at a traffic light a few times. Not able to start anymore. Changed the head gasket, overhauled the head and put everything together. But now still I have the same issues. coolant level, ECT and oil seem fine. Car started very difficult, when hot, idled with pops/hick ups, WOT sputtering until engine stalling. Slow acceleration is normal. I did the following with some result: - changed ignition coil - changed ignition control module - changed plugs and gapped to 1 mm - changed rotor and cap - checked timing with a light and set it to the red mark using timing sync in eCtune - raised fuel pressure some, this was a little low (B&M FPR) - checked ignition cables (NGK), measured resistance and sprayed with water to check for sparks, looked OK - checked ECT sensor, measured resistance when hot, looked OK, between 200 - 400 Ohm - cleaned injectors (DSM 450 cc) in ultrasonic bath - calibrated TPS 0,47 - 4,55 V - cleaned EACV, was very dirty - checked FITV, was loose inside - reset ECU - checked ground. At battery (Odyssey PC680) ground connection to chassis was bad, so relocated this. - checked main relay and found some bad connections, soldered it. Sometimes fuel pump did not prime, so I hit the main relay

Now the car cranks much better and during warming up revs like normal, no pops at idle. When fully warmed up now and then it again starts to sputter at WOT. All readings from TPS, MAP, ECT, etc look normal in eCtune. What I found during my troubleshooting was the following: when I open the throttle hard under the hood, sometimes I did not see any spark between rotor and cap (I had a transparent cap so this was easy to see) and then sputtering happens. So I think it is something with the ignition/distributor/electrical. Gas is in the tank for 5 - 6 months now, maybe bad gas or water in the tank? Tank is almost empty now and I will put some RON 98 in it. I will add my cal and some logs. Any ideas??? Help is appreciated very much

crx303 · Post by **crx303** » Sun Jan 30, 2011 4:33 am

Log 1: idling and revving: sputtering Log 2: driving, hitting WOT, sputtering, engine stall, not able to start for some time. See end of log.

Post by **Gaskleppie** » Sun Jan 30, 2011 11:45 am

- raised fuel pressure some, this was a little low (B&M FPR)

I have seen some of these FPR's gone bad. Changing them for a stock one solved a lot of problems. I have not seen your logs yet, but does it lean out when it sputters?

crx303 · Post by **crx303** » Sun Jan 30, 2011 12:13 pm

Yep, it goes all the way lean. Today I found my fuel cut setting was wrong, mbar was set at 127. Before it was 200, so I set it back. Now it works fine. What should be MAP mbar when idling at 750 rpm? Can it have something to do with updates of eCtune and using the existing cal before updating?

Post by **Gaskleppie** » Sun Jan 30, 2011 12:18 pm

Have seen your logs. I can't see any reason why it would sputter. Looks like its a hardware thing. Maybe the FPR or the ignition but you allready changed that one. You got that old green CRX right? Maybe a bad contact in the main fuel relay or even the key contact?

crx303 · Post by **crx303** » Sun Jan 30, 2011 1:18 pm

The green one it is

Thanks for taking a look. I get no cells at all. I couldn't see any strange things in the logs also. Hmm, I have a Bosch inline pump vertically on the firewall, where this canister (environment) used tot sit. I can hear it running very well, not always a steady sound, maybe it is this FPR. Idle AFR is also not always consistent. Key contact? Hmm, after testing and driving this whole afternoon with some severe backfires and sputtering I removed the key from the contact and it was kind of hot

Is this normal? I disabled launch control and anti lag, because these are also not working properly, due to the same problem. Main relay already repaired. Can the battery have something to do with it, having to less capacity?

Post by **Gaskleppie** » Sun Jan 30, 2011 1:57 pm

Key contact? Hmm, after testing and driving this whole afternoon with some severe backfires and sputtering I removed the key from the contact and it was kind of hot Rolling Eyes Is this normal?

no, your key should be cold. When its hot, the contact must be quit bad. You can check this by adding an extra + wire to the ignition. If the stuttering disappears, change the contact.

crx303 · Post by **crx303** » Sun May 08, 2011 4:01 am

I think I have tracked down the problem now, bad wastegate actuator (internal wastegate). Air is leaking through. With the wastegate connected to the IM, the Bov sputters (cool sound, but not as it should be

) With Wastegate disconnected, BOV whistles like a bird! If I blow air in the wastegate, it comes out at the other side. Also I replaced the alternator, which was totally at the end of its lifetime. I also cleaned the key contact, which was very dirty. All of the repairs where necessary so these were no waste

Now I have to find a new actuator, for a Mitsubishi TD05H-18G (Greddy).

Almighty-Si · Post by **Almighty-Si** » Sun May 08, 2011 10:27 am

If you would have posted this a week ago I could have sent you one...I just threw one in the garbage.

crx303 · Post by **crx303** » Sun May 08, 2011 1:40 pm

Oh, that's too bad! I think to install a universal actuator and make it fit. Today I disconnected the actuator from the flapper, so the wastegate is always open. Almost no boost anymore, but revving like it did in the past! No sudden hesitating, sputtering or fuel/ignition cuts anymore!