Zeitronix Wideband Offset issue.
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Zeitronix Wideband Offset issue.
Im bring in the wideband input to D10. I set ectune to zeitronix and compare the display of both. The zeitronix reading is 15.5 and the ectune is reading 19 afr. I try to adjust the offset in small increments the went as far as + or - 2.5 volts and the most it would change is to 17.5 afr. The one thing I want to disclose and could be the problem is r136 and r138 are removed on the ecu. This was after reading on hondata that they interfere with the eld signal for widebands.
Eric
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How is your wideband power routed? your wideband should share a ground wire with the ECU, and be connected to the chassis close to that point as well... this provides an excellent ground. Also, make sure the wideband is getting it's power either from the fusebox, or better yet, a relay off the battery. My car has a gross offset issue just like your reporting; I haven't been able to cure it just yet, but I still have more to try out first.
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- calvin
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verify that the zeitronix outpyuts the same as the zeitronix table in eCtune/setting/wideband removing the r136 and r138 is not a problem. it would be better to replace thm with 1Mega ohm resistor against static protection. THere are some other user using zeitronix here
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By default, D10 has permanent pull-up/down resistors of 1K ohm value which could easily affect the output from a wideband. An output from your wideband is probably not designed to take any kind of current draw (in this case, up to 2.5 mA with the resistors in place). As Calvin says: Replace with 1M ohm parts to allow just a minimum of static protection for the ECU input. /Allan
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Try runnning power from ecu if that doesn't help try battery in r136, r138sq_creations wrote:Should I put the 1Mega ohm resistor in r136, r138 or inline on d10? Thanks for the input guys. I was running the wideband off the cig lighter I will move that to the ecu power too.
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When you used d10 did you have to do like mentioned above and use resistors? Im having some troube with my zt-2 as well but I need to try rewiring it.Are you guys using the analog or new linear output?My analog output voltage values that are in the instruction manual didn't match what was originally in ectune for example the manual says v=0.15 afr=9.7 ectunes chart says v=0.15 afr=9.56 Does this matter? If Im going to do power directly through the battery what would I do about switching it off and on or is that why it would be better to use the ecu?Dodo Bizar wrote:Just want to say that I have the ZT2 on D10 and readings from ZT2 and eCt match exactly. Did you already move the power to the ECU?
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I have the old-style ZT2 with analog input only. Here is my connection list: ZT2 pin no. / color / function -> ECU pin name (can be located on al OBD0/1/2 ECU's I know of) 1 red / power supply -> IGP2 2 white / wideband output -> ELD 3 green / rpm input -> ICM1 7 black / power ground -> PG2 8 brown / sensor ground -> SG2 9 purple nb / simulated narrowband -> PO2S 10 grey / tps -> TPS 12 blue / user input -> MAP This way it should work fine.
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I'm still a noob to this, so can you please give the pin # location on the ecu? thanksDodo Bizar wrote:I have the old-style ZT2 with analog input only. Here is my connection list: ZT2 pin no. / color / function -> ECU pin name (can be located on al OBD0/1/2 ECU's I know of) 1 red / power supply -> IGP2 2 white / wideband output -> ELD 3 green / rpm input -> ICM1 7 black / power ground -> PG2 8 brown / sensor ground -> SG2 9 purple nb / simulated narrowband -> PO2S 10 grey / tps -> TPS 12 blue / user input -> MAP This way it should work fine.
This is the link I usually use for pin outs. http://technet.ff-squad.com/wiring.obd1.htm
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Thanks! I have the other obd1 ecu pinout off of them, but this one is much better!z31 wrote:This is the link I usually use for pin outs. http://technet.ff-squad.com/wiring.obd1.htm
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Check (spam) my site: www.dodo-upgrades.nl for some pinouts as well. BTW: my ZT2 sensor has died after 1.5 year and ehm... 70 or 80.000km. Replaced sensor and workes fine again.