car won't start

cbustuner · Post by **cbustuner** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 6:35 am

So my car won't start.I was just finishing some part throttle street tuning and it died.Wasn't in boost or anything just driving normal around 45mph and the engine shut off.Maybe 1-2 mins before it died I did a 3 second boost pull.Other then that I didn't beat on it.Now it won't start. I checked the obvious stuff fuel pump primes- have fuel pressure at the regulator/rail- injectors are working- pulled each sparkplug/wire and grounded them to see if they sparked.All 4 did- changed spark plugs- starter is turning the motor over- battery gives me 12.4 volts on a voltage meter,but i tried jumping it anyway- The only other test i think i could run would be a compression test but the numbers are going to be off anyway, since I wont be able to do it warm.I might be having some minor head gasket issues,but I don't think that's the problem. The only thing I did on this map that I didn't do before was I disabled the eld and alt control,I tried starting it with them enabled and that didn't work.My car now is throwing a code 13 which is the baro sensor.It didn't throw that code until it died.Could that even cause a no start issue?Or since it's located in the ecu could I possibly have a fried ecu?(I figure I don't since I still have fuel/spark but it's worth asking) Any insight? When i can look at it later today im going to try to disable the baro sensor and im going to look inside the ecu for any obvious damage.

Post by **calvin** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 7:22 am

throw a multimeter over the injectors and see if u crank if there is power over it... Also try a new map from scrath

JaredKaragen · Post by **JaredKaragen** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 1:20 pm

re-upload .cal and base ROM... I had one funny upload long time ago.. What is your cranking voltage? (min 10.0V to start motor...)

cbustuner · Post by **cbustuner** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 6:11 pm

calvin, tried a new map.Threw on a stock map sensor,disabled the pa sensor and o2 sensor and new injector values,everything else i left alone and it still wouldn't start.The pa sensor code went away with it disabled. Im 100% sure the injectors are firing,since when i pull them all 4 are wet with fuel,but I will check them with a volt meter.Is there any specific voltage im looking for? jared, How do I check my cranking voltage? Hook a voltmeter on the starter? or battery? could the main relay be an issue? I assumed if it was the main relay the fuel pump wouldn't prime but it's worth asking.

JaredKaragen · Post by **JaredKaragen** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 7:23 pm

main relay is always a potential; you can jumper the fuel pump to +12V to see... but you should hear the pump come on when key turned on (did you not turn on the prime setting?) but for test, just have a multimeter on your battery that you can see during cranking... if it drops below 10V it's not a good sign for the battery (if it's charged). After cranking, if you push in the pedal for a KOEO CEL check does ther CEL light up? There is always the common issue with an ignition switch going out, and having to jiggle it to keep contact, or just replace/clean it.

cbustuner · Post by **cbustuner** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 7:52 pm

no the fuel pump IS priming like it should,thats why I was asking could it still be a main relay issue. Im going to try the stuff you suggested.If it is the ignition switch would that have caused it to die and then not be able to start back up but still crank?

Post by **calvin** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 8:39 pm

did u try stock ecu?

cbustuner · Post by **cbustuner** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 10:13 pm

calvin wrote:did u try stock ecu?

I undid the ecu jumper on J1 and it still wouldnt start or try to start it just cranked.It's weird that it didn't throw any codes either and It should be throwing at least a code for the tps and oxygen sensor/heater.since the tps is calibrated diffrent and it doesn't have a stock oxygen sensor hooked up.When I did a fresh basemap with ectune it threw the oxygen sensor code until i disabled it like normal. I think that's telling me it's some kind of ecu issue.

Post by **calvin** » Sat Jun 28, 2008 10:18 pm

try other ecu(stock)

Bindegal · Post by **Bindegal** » Sun Jun 29, 2008 3:54 am

Undo the distributor and place it somewhere so you can access the cam drive, and it still has an engine ground. Take out spark plugs, place somewhere with ground connection. Ignition on. Turn the cam drive on the distributor. You should now: 1) hear fuel flowing through the fuel rail. 2) Injectors should be clicking. 3) And there should be spark from the plugs. /Allan

Post by **calvin** » Sun Jun 29, 2008 9:08 am

just by unplugging the dizzy, grouding it and turn the shaft in the dizzy?

Bindegal · Post by **Bindegal** » Sun Jun 29, 2008 1:32 pm

Yes.. ECU will believe the crank is turning and should start doing its thing. If it doesenÂ´t, something is wrong. Dizzy ground is only needed to check for spark. Good method for diagnosing weird stuff, I use it from time to time. The great thing is that you can hear injectors and fuel pump, which is normally next to impossible when cranking the engine. /Allan

sewell94 · Post by **sewell94** » Sun Jun 29, 2008 2:56 pm

Have someone check your fuel pressure while your cranking, its possible for it to prime, then not have pressure while cranking. Another thing you can do is throw some carb cleaner in the intake to see if it fires, if it doesn't then its not a fuel issue, either spark or mechanical, and it it does fire then its a fuel issue.

Orthello · Post by **Orthello** » Mon Jun 30, 2008 3:01 am

Sounds like some same issues as I had when my ignition coil died. (weak spark)

sewell94 · Post by **sewell94** » Mon Jun 30, 2008 7:22 pm

What i mentioned about fuel pressure implies the ign switch, which honda has had under recall/TSB for years.