WEIRDNESS!!

Bindegal · Post by **Bindegal** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 4:40 pm

As for the IAT - take a look at your logs. If the rise to 133F is gradual, the temp might be correct, probably caused by heat soak. If itÂ´s an instant change by many degrees it could be a bad connection to the sensor. If you still have issues with fluctuating AFRÂ´s I suggest you carefully tune your battery compensation table. EVERY car and combination of engine/fuelpump/injectors is slightly different. If I have the time for it I always try to fine tune it so that AFR stays constant no matter if the electrical load is high or low. I donÂ´t think I ever changed the IAT comp table, but I usually have to tweak the ECT fuel comp table a bit. /Allan

b20beast · Post by **b20beast** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 6:43 pm

IAT is more like 140-146 under normal driving i observed. but tuning part throttle map. should all the lines resemble? do you have any screen shots of a tuned part throttle map?

b20beast · Post by **b20beast** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 6:54 pm

Also not sure why it is making corrections at 144 Degrees F. Compensation starts at 155 Degrees. Also -1 Is how much? -1 AFR ? So if its 15.0, it would read 14.0?

Bindegal · Post by **Bindegal** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 7:16 pm

Focus. Main issue here: Is the sensor reading accurate temperatures? Likely your primary problem is either a sensor or wiring malfunction and you need to address this. A common problem I see sometimes is that the temp sensor is burned out when someone accidentally swaps the connectors for IAT and IACV. To my knowledge, values in the various fuel compensation tables are sort of \"raw\" values that donÂ´t necessarily translate directly into X % more or less fueling. Likely the values are derived directly from the originally Honda routines. You adjust until the desired result is acheived. However... I have NEVER had to adjust the IAT comp table until now. /Allan

JaredKaragen · Post by **JaredKaragen** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 7:21 pm

When I make a tune, I ritually go to the IAT table (before tuning) and where the inputted data plane crosses zero, I take the higher temp areas and zero them out above the zeros; that way, hotter (heatsoak, etc) does not change my tune while tuning; After all is said and done; I go up and add the negative values to the really high temps almost like the OEM tables did, but 99% of the time, my car drives in the zeroed portion of my IAT table... so it is not too big of a concern for me. But I live in California, where the temps normally stay within 20 degrees from day to night. As for the rest of the IAT table; once I get the car somewhat tuned, I drive at night, and if it feels off, I will add or subtract a percentage from the table; note difference when I drive again, and readjust if necessary... normally; it doesn't take much at all.

b20beast · Post by **b20beast** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 7:24 pm

when the engine is cold, temp jumps in 10 degrees. sometimes it will read 77 degrees then jump to 100 degrees. but it will also hold steady most of the time ranges 140-146 degrees Also on another note, the TPS fluctuates!

b20beast · Post by **b20beast** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 11:10 pm

i also noticed, if i quickly blimp the throttle. And the tracer do not sit in the cell long enough i will read lean especially in cols 1 and 2. What should i adjust for this? HITS?

b20beast · Post by **b20beast** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 11:36 pm

IAT reads about 130-140F I have oem headers, no shield, could this account for all the heat

Bindegal · Post by **Bindegal** » Thu Jan 22, 2009 5:01 pm

It is highly unlikely that the temperatures you are seeing are caused by the software. FIX THE SENSOR OR THE WIRING. This sort of fault is not uncommon... /Allan

b20beast · Post by **b20beast** » Thu Jan 22, 2009 6:19 pm

how do i fix the sensor ? the harness is uncut, so it cant be that. i also got a o2 heater cel today while driving, but heater is disabled wtf?

b20beast · Post by **b20beast** » Fri Jan 23, 2009 2:05 am

it may have something to do with the battery offset. when i look at the compensations table for battery offset, when idle. it moves between 14.6 - 12.04 battery table. Is this normal? Also how do i tune this feature? do you think i have a bad ground

Post by **Gaskleppie** » Fri Jan 23, 2009 3:12 am

Bindegal wrote:It is highly unlikely that the temperatures you are seeing are caused by the software. FIX THE SENSOR OR THE WIRING. This sort of fault is not uncommon... /Allan

X2!!! btw, do you have a shortram intake? If yes, your temps are absolutely normal after a WOT run.

b20beast · Post by **b20beast** » Fri Jan 23, 2009 9:35 am

Gaskleppie wrote:
Bindegal wrote:It is highly unlikely that the temperatures you are seeing are caused by the software. FIX THE SENSOR OR THE WIRING. This sort of fault is not uncommon... /Allan
X2!!! btw, do you have a shortram intake? If yes, your temps are absolutely normal after a WOT run.

yes sir i do i have a short ram intake aluminum rad with pusher fan. also no heat shield on oem headers. Couuld i be needing to adjust battery offset? i see it fluctuates.

Post by **calvin** » Fri Jan 23, 2009 10:15 am

b20beast wrote:how do i fix the sensor ? the harness is uncut, so it cant be that. i also got a o2 heater cel today while driving, but heater is disabled wtf?

can be oxidation on the terminals. o2 heater cel i don't believe that it could be code 1 o2 sensor

b20beast · Post by **b20beast** » Fri Jan 23, 2009 10:17 am

How are you guys tuning idle AFR? Do you look at the 'display'? or do you log gear 0 ? my display, the afr fluctuates from like 14.6-15.3 at idle. should this be?