P30 EDM Basemap
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P30 EDM Basemap
Hi, Has anyone else noticed the P30 EDM basemap runs really lean? I selected standard injectors, P28 ecu and P30 EDM basemap and on start up I had 18.1 afr on idle, it was the same throughout the map, really lean and had to add lots of fuell. Car has a standard b16a engine with just breathing mods.
what do you mean by breathing mods? intake? headers? exhaust mods? what all have you done? keep in mind that a engine is a big air pump, so anything that you do to increase the airflow, you also have to increase fuel. or you might have set something up wrong, why did you use the edm map? try the jdm map and see what happens. are you using stock injectors? when you start a new map load the cal. and start the car, let it warm up to full operating temp and then goto the tools menu,select injector calibration, and adjust that until you get it idling around 14.50, then start tuning your maps
Universal Technical Institute Hot rod University graduate ASE Master Certified Automotive Tech Honda and Acura factory certified 9 years and counting in the automotive field
Intake and catback exhaust. Stock injectors. Did the injector cal. and ended up adding 33% to reach 14.7afr but had to pull lots of fuel from rest of map. Ill upload cal. file if you wouldn't mind checking it to see have I missed or done something wrong.jpjackson wrote:what do you mean by breathing mods? intake? headers? exhaust mods? what all have you done? keep in mind that a engine is a big air pump, so anything that you do to increase the airflow, you also have to increase fuel. or you might have set something up wrong, why did you use the edm map? try the jdm map and see what happens. are you using stock injectors? when you start a new map load the cal. and start the car, let it warm up to full operating temp and then goto the tools menu,select injector calibration, and adjust that until you get it idling around 14.50, then start tuning your maps
- Attachments
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- 17022010.cal
- (8.19 KiB) Downloaded 167 times
Your call have an problem This is an full stock OEM P30 created on eCtune
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- P30 EDM.cal
- Stock P30 EDM
- (8.19 KiB) Downloaded 154 times
every one helps me out on this forum, this software has awesome support, so yes i will help you out, i would be happy to. but post a log file to if you have one
Universal Technical Institute Hot rod University graduate ASE Master Certified Automotive Tech Honda and Acura factory certified 9 years and counting in the automotive field
thanks for reply. What is the problem with my cal? The cal. your seeing is part tuned by me. I have pulled lots of fuel from the map due to been very rich throughout the map after doing injector calibration to reach 14.7afr idle.1337EJ1 wrote:Your call have an problem This is an full stock OEM P30 created on eCtune
one thing that i notice is the you still have closed loop enabled, you cant tune like that dude. that is what is throwing you off, you are trying to tune in idle first with closed loop and it is throwing you off everywhere else. even though you are adding overall fuel to the mix, closed loop is taking away at idle to keep it around stoich, so of coarse you are going to have to take fuel from the rest of the map . what kind of wide band are you using?
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- jdm p30 closedloop disable.cal
- here is a jdm p30 cal. close-loop disabled, try this
- (8.19 KiB) Downloaded 149 times
Universal Technical Institute Hot rod University graduate ASE Master Certified Automotive Tech Honda and Acura factory certified 9 years and counting in the automotive field
Are you sure mate? I'm pretty sure I disabled closed loop. I have a innovate lm-2 wideband. 02 sensor just calibrated out of exhaust before tuning. I imagine if closed loop was enabled I would not have been reading a steady 18.1afr on idle before any changes to base map?jpjackson wrote:one thing that i notice is the you still have closed loop enabled, you cant tune like that dude. that is what is throwing you off, you are trying to tune in idle first with closed loop and it is throwing you off everywhere else. even though you are adding overall fuel to the mix, closed loop is taking away at idle to keep it around stoich, so of coarse you are going to have to take fuel from the rest of the map . what kind of wide band are you using?
According to the calibration file you posted, closed loop was enabled. So going off of that, that will cause you a lot of problems While trying to tune your fuel maps, ecspecially whan you are starting a new map and trying to get your starting fuel trim dialed in. So I disabled it in the map I made for you, so you know the steps To start off. Let me know how it does
Universal Technical Institute Hot rod University graduate ASE Master Certified Automotive Tech Honda and Acura factory certified 9 years and counting in the automotive field
OK, i dunno, when i opened your cal. it had closed loop enabled. maybe a bad software install. have you done a fuel pressure test? clogged fuel filter? i am just trying to give you some ideas, but a stock engine with stock injectors, and a couple of bolt ons you shouldnt have to add 33% for fuel trim.
Universal Technical Institute Hot rod University graduate ASE Master Certified Automotive Tech Honda and Acura factory certified 9 years and counting in the automotive field
The car was a d series non vtec before b16a engine swap. New honda oem fuel filter was fitted at time of swap which was less than 4 months ago. I never changed the fuel pump, I just assumed they would be the same for D series or B series maybe this is the problem? What fuel pressure should I see at idle? and also with vac line off FPR? Thanks alot for the helpjpjackson wrote:OK, i dunno, when i opened your cal. it had closed loop enabled. maybe a bad software install. have you done a fuel pressure test? clogged fuel filter? i am just trying to give you some ideas, but a stock engine with stock injectors, and a couple of bolt ons you shouldnt have to add 33% for fuel trim.
one other thing i thought about, if you had to add 33% for it to idle around 14.5 and then had to take fuel away on the rest of the map, did you check for vacuum leaks? that makes the most since to me now that i think about it, sometimes its the simple shit that we overlook, i know from experience. make sure that everything mechanical is in good working order. and also, i don't know what the elevation is where you are at but i noticed that you have your baro sensor disabled. so if you are at a higher elevation=thinner air, you will run richer than normal if the baro sensor isn't compensating for a higher elevation. i am just trying to give you more and more ideas to help you out, its the good old process of elimination.
Universal Technical Institute Hot rod University graduate ASE Master Certified Automotive Tech Honda and Acura factory certified 9 years and counting in the automotive field